For The Love Of Perfume

Redefined: Byredo Accord Oud

2012-02-08T10:56:00.000-07:00

I believe we can redefine ourselves with a scent. Maybe I just take myself too seriously. Maybe I long for variety more than the average woman. But a few weeks ago, I wanted to become someone else -- someone more sophisticated than the baby toting, Barney song singing, bottle preparing, make-up-less Mommy that I am of late. I wanted to feel different. I knew I needed a scent to inspire this virtual transformation.

I found it. I found the one that makes me want to paint my lips, tousle my hair, speak a little slower, bare some shoulder skin and bat my eyelashes. I found the one that helps me forget the tedious tasks of the day and instead focus on sensation, emotion, tenderness. I found the one that highlights my wise, determined nature. Finally, I found the one that takes me to dimly lit rooms, crackling fires, velvety rugs and blankets. It is Byredo Accord Oud.

Founded by Indian creative Ben Gorham, Byredo is a Stockholm based house that believes in limiting raw materials and focusing on quality of craftsmanship. Accord Oud is one of fourteen in the catalog, along with various high quality candles, soaps and body washes.

The scent begins fresh, with notes like clean clary sage and tender blond woods accented by dry leather which initially demands all olfactory attention. As it evolves on the skin, Accord Oud takes on a simultaneously rich, smoky, nutty quality. Juicy blackberry and plum, rich, intoxicating rum with spicy saffron and cinnamon develop as the scent adheres and grounds itself to the skin. Surprisingly, the effect is neither sweet nor wet but rather dry, elegant, meaty, almost edible. Like L’Artisan Traversée du Bosphore’s wise, clean, intellectual mentor, Accord Oud is startlingly refined and exceptionally interesting. In its entirety, Accord Oud resembles nothing I have previously experienced. The oud craze passed me by as too heady and the revival of leather-based scents appeared trendy. However, I declare Byredo Accord Oud the quiet, sophisticated leather oud – for those who previously dismissed these notes.

Here is where the scent redefines me: no flowers. This former opulent white floral lover has embraced a scent that completely lacks blooms. In so doing, I instantly reveal my new identity: grown up sophisticate. (I am definitely taking myself too seriously!) In all sincerity, I am a different woman than I was before bearing children. Byredo Accord Oud’s classy, interesting, unique aura lends an extra edge and elegance to my long, maternal days.

*Posted last March on Perfume-Smellin Things

For the love of leather

2012-02-05T13:30:00.003-07:00

Two leather-featuring scents captivated me last winter and continue to do so. Accord Oud by Byredo takes first place. Its leather and oud lusciousness transports me to even chillier temps and dimly lit, sophisticated lounges, toasty fires and Italian leather club chairs; its hint of ladylike blackberry, clary sage and powdery musk act to ground the scent and prevent it from overwhelming the nose. The second, L’Artisan Parfumeur Traversée du Bosphore -- velvety leather that morphs into nutty, gourmand goodness and eventually musky vanilla – pairs perfectly with stylish boots and a colorful scarf during winter’s cooler days in the desert.

Ineke Contest

2011-09-04T13:42:00.000-07:00

Enter for a chance to win a full sized bottle from Ineke's Floral Curiosities line here

Puredistance Antonia

2011-03-01T21:17:00.002-07:00

Puredistance Antonia is an adventurous romantic with a lush, floral heart. Adopting a playful and cheerful demeanor, the scent initially releases green floral notes which spring up as verdant, promising and stunning. Set to the rhythm of a sweet and soaring vanilla base, hints of delicate jasmine, rich orris and majestic rose joyfully dance and erupt in elation on a soft, green bed of vetiver as if celebrating spring’s long awaited arrival.

The addition of galbanum carries the charming dance into the damp night, adding polish to the composition and rendering the fragrance downright gorgeous. Antonia is a poetic expression of a soft, refined and floral beauty. The scent lingers with a gentle kiss and the promise of a glorious, new day.

Chanel No. 5 Eau Première

2011-02-16T05:00:00.003-07:00

I am one of the lucky ladies who can wear Chanel No. 5 with confidence. I know it frustrates some. All those aldehydes and flowers can sometimes clash with a person’s skin. But on me, it sings. I am grateful. (In other olfactory categories I am quite unlucky so I am certainly not bragging here.)

Chanel No. 5 Eau Première is for those who may have become frustrated with the original. It is quintessentially No. 5 for the new generation. In order to compare with some accuracy, I am wearing Chanel No. 5 Eau de Parfum on one arm and Chanel No. 5 Eau Première on the other. The contrast between the two is quite simple: the Eau Première has a higher backbeat, a lack of sharpness, softer edges and a sweeter drydown. The lush floral notes remain: neroli, ylang-ylang, rose, iris and jasmine. It lasts even longer on my skin than the Eau de Parfum and when I wear it, I receive repeated, unsolicited compliments.

Why did I choose it as the scent to accompany the new Chrysler advertisement? Read more about that here. Even though the focus is on an American car, I believe French perfume to be the epitome of style in the most classic sense. If we want to bring that style and glamour back to the forefront, what better choice than a modern, French, meticulously crafted nod to the past?

I pause when saying this knowing it is a bold statement, but I truly believe the world would be a much better place if all women who use perfume wore Chanel – not No. 5 specifically but most Chanel fragrances (with the exception of Chance). Never overwhelming, always sophisticated, and always glamourous is Chanel. A close second would be Estée Lauder. However, I find the classic Estée Lauder choices I can wear to be limited. So, my vote remains Chanel. I will leave you with the advertisement and those thoughts to ponder.

Chrysler Advertisement

Chanel No. 5 Eau Première is available in a 5 oz. bottle at Saks Fifth Avenue and various online sources. Prices range from $110 to $158.

Happy Valentine's Day

2011-02-14T05:00:00.010-07:00

Here are my thoughts on my first perfume love, posted to Perfume Smellin' Things this morning. Please share with me your first perfume love and what impacted you about that fragrance. Have a wonderful Valentine's Day with your loved ones!

They say you never forget your first love. That is true in romance and it is equally true in fragrance. I remember with vivid detail my first perfume love. I remember saving my wrinkled dollar bills from my steady babysitting job to purchase her. I remember learning how to say her name. I remember bravely walking into the store, setting my sites on the opulent fragrance counter that I had frequented with my aunt, and asking for her. I remember feeling so grown up in acquiring her at a mere fourteen years old. I remember exploring her white, clean packaging, studying her curves and inhaling her fragrance. Yes, I remember … Her name was Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel. I can conjure her scent in an instant, for she accompanied me nearly every day through my sophomore year of high school. She mentored me like a loving, big sister. A little powdery, a lot floral and definitely not sophomoric, her sophistication embraced my wholesome, naïve adole-scents. Yet, her lack of overly musky or animalic bases ensured her consistent appeal to my untrained nose. Cheerful orange blossom, sweet lily and springtime hyacinth underscored by sandalwood and incense, Anaïs Anaïs’ accords are always appropriate, even for my strict, parochial school days. If only the pains of growing up were not associated with her, I would reconnect with her, asking for another warm embrace. Instead, I will always remember … with love and adoration.

Draw Winner!

2011-02-07T09:11:00.000-07:00

The winner of the draw for a decant of fragrance that, to me, personifies the new Chrysler commercial is .... ALICE!!

Thank you to everyone who voted. Alice's name was randomly drawn using annabet.com. Alice will receive a generous decant of my beloved Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiere. Congratulations Alice! Please send your address to tmh256@live.com.

Please stay tuned for a review on Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiere.

A Most Pleasurable Second Introduction: Serge Lutens Daim Blond

2011-02-06T19:30:00.001-07:00

I am always delighted with appreciation to come across a sales associate who not only knows their subject matter but also genuinely enjoys what they do. I recently had the pleasure of meeting such an associate at Barney’s New York in Scottsdale. I phoned ahead of time, asking her to show me some fragrances featuring a leather note. When I arrived, I was blown away not only by her knowledge, but also by her kindness. And I need to thank her for a second introduction to Daim Blond by Serge Lutens.

Meant to evoke the scent and feel of buttery rich, high quality suede, Daim Blond lives up to its objective and then some. This is achieved through a delicate combination of soft, sweetly scented flowers (heliotrope, iris) with earthy musk, spicy cardamom, woodsy hawthorn and bitter apricot kernel. The latter three notes serve to intensify, enrich and add character to the aforementioned gentle, delicate and understated floral accord; without it, Daim Blond would be lacking polish and interest. The result becomes a rich, velvety, mellifluous fragrance with a slight hint of feminity -- high quality suede indeed. I thoroughly enjoy it, especially when I wear a crème suede cropped jacket.

Serge Lutens Daim Blond can be purchased at Barney's New York, http://www.luckyscent.com/, http://www.aedes.com/ and Henri Bendel. A 50ml bottle retails for $140.

Transfixed: Thoughts on a Commercial and a Draw!

2011-02-02T19:35:00.000-07:00

It rarely happens. A commercial is simply that -- a commercial. We are inundated with messages, signs, print ads, TV chatter, overall stimulation in modern day society. We see things, quickly dismiss them, and go on about our business. I am inundated with information and lots of it, daily. So, it rarely happens that a TV commercial captures my attention from start to finish, inspiring my creative brain and evoking emotions as I sit motionless, glued to the images, haunted by the music.

It happened tonight. The first time I saw the beautifully constructed new Chrysler commercial. As J. Ralph’s “One Million Miles Away” hums hauntingly and Adrien Brody speaks seductively (“Where’s the glamour gone?”), images of impeccably dressed and coiffed socialites arrive at a gathering in a beautiful vintage Chrysler. “Wasn’t too long ago, America had it. Looking, feeling like a million bucks was practically a birthright … It’s time to regain the style, the cachet, the confidence … it’s time, once again, to arrive in style …” And I am speechless.

There is a reason I am transfixed. It reminds me of what I try to achieve with a fragrance, rather than an automobile. Every time I test a new scent, wear it, buy it, I am attempting to achieve effortless glamour. I am trying to arrive in style. And just when I think I have found “the one” that gives me that elegant edge, it eludes … it disappoints … I become bored … and the search continues.

So my question today, dear readers: What fragrance should underscore this beautiful advertisement from Chrysler? If you were to arrive in style, what would you be wearing? I will randomly draw a name from the comments posted on this space. The winner will receive a decant of a fragrance in my collection that qualifies. (Mystery fragrance to be reviewed and posted later!)

New Twitter Page

2011-01-29T21:39:00.000-07:00

Hello Dear Readers,

I offer another way to follow my blog and posts! Find me on Twitter here.

Fondly,
Tamara

Etat Libre D'Orange: Sample Pack Review, Part 3 of 3

2011-01-28T15:31:00.002-07:00

The final batch from my Etat Libre D’Orange sample pack, garnered from Lucky Scent when they originally launched the line. It does not include the one scent that attracted so much attention --Secretions Magnifique – nor the newer offerings Sex Pistols and Noel au Balcon.

Antihéros – Antihéros offers perhaps the most verdant, unending fields of lavender grounded by some woods and musk. Remove the fancy description. This is what you want to scent your pillow and your bedroom, and maybe your partner when desiring calm, peace, tranquility.

Divin’ Enfant – The opening offers the same vein of marshmallow and orange blossom delicacy and innocence as By Kilian’s Love. However, rather than remaining somewhere between “innocence and not,” Divin’ Enfant develops, without apology, into a tantalizing, sexy leather and coffee accord. Mais non? You do not find leather and coffee sexy? Give this one a try and you will know exactly what I mean.

Putain de Palaces – Unabashedly feminine, lushly floral, delicately spicy and … loud, Putain de Palaces shouts from the rooftops, “Look! Look at me!!!” A gorgeous study on sweet flowers (rose, violet, lily of the valley) underscored by ginger, this fragrance reminds me of a woman wearing too many frills who needs to learn the art of subtlety. Nonetheless, it beats ninety-five percent of mass marketed fragrances today. For those who love lush, powdery, sweet florals, Putain de Palaces deserves a sniff.

Rossy de Palma – Rossy de Palma offers a bewitching study on rose in a less than classical sense. True to its namesake, it is beautiful in a strange, odd sort of way. I visualize scarlet, fully bloomed roses underscored by chocolate with a dash of peppery spices – a perfect choice for Valentine’s Day. Spray some at the nape of your neck, in your hair, and in your clothing; it wafts from the skin fairly quickly.

Je Suis Un Homme – A scent that apologizes to no one for being exactly what it was designed to be: a classic cologne providing masculine qualities. After bergamot and citrus make their quick entrance and subsequent departure, birch wood and cognac linger, offering a divinely smoky quality. The latter notes prompt me to offer a glowing recommendation for Je Suis Un Homme; the former notes suggest a simple nod to classic bergamot-inspired cologne. If my husband were to wear this, I would nuzzle him incessantly.

Eloge du Traitor – This offering introduced me to an entirely new scent category. At first sniff, it was so familiar and yet so odd. With pine, bay leaf and artemisia headlining, to describe Eloge du Traitor as herbaceous would be a gross understatement. Simultaneously bitter and sweet, with a dense quality, Eloge du Traitor prompts me to pack some trail mix and my camera to set off for a mysterious daytime adventure into the lush Coconino National Forest. I will retire at a cozy log cabin that is scented with this interesting gem.

My overall impression of this line: interesting and unique fragrances with a provocative, slightly risky shtick. The scents offer an impressive experience of every olfactory category. I would have dismissed Etat Libre D’Orange as juvenile based upon their appearance alone, but in doing so would have missed out. I may purchase Divin’ Enfant and Vraie Blonde.

Etat Libre d’Orange: Sample Pack Review, Part 2 of 3

2011-01-19T15:16:00.003-07:00

Vierges et Toreros – The marketing metaphor is compelling enough: heady tuberose, the”virgin” in a bull fight arena against the animal, resinous notes of leather, costus, and patchouli, or the “torero.” The torero appears to win to the bystander, but to the nose tuberose is ultimately victorious in a passionate battle. On my skin it initially fares more like faint tuberose painfully losing with leather and pepper victorious. The leather note smells slightly of rubber. Tuberose when paired with other olfactory categories tends to disappear on my skin – one of the reasons I sadly cannot wear Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle. However, when tuberose is paired with other floral notes -- as in Frederic Malle Carnal Flower – it lasts for days on me. Based upon my experience, my first impression verdict on Vierges et Toreros? Too much torero and not enough virgin, metaphorically speaking, of course. However, after giving it about fifteen to twenty minutes to develop, I stand corrected. That small, creamy, white flower has some punch. The leather mutes tuberose’s typically heady quality and renders the scent downright alluring.

Nombrile Immense – Not my mother’s bottle of patchouli oil from her bell-bottom wearing, rebellious hippy days. Oh no. This is premiere quality, quiet, reverent patchouli for practicing yoga and meditating. The added notes of vetiver, opoponax and absolute ambrette seeds render this patchouli-based scent absolutely wearable yet casual and introspective. Vetiver literally takes over during the course of development and although categorized as unisex by Lucky Scent, Nombrile Immense could very well constitute a small decant purchase for my husband.

Delicious Closet Queen – Directly opposing on every level the type of fragrance I like to wear, Delicious Closet Queen is so repugnant to my nose that it is very quickly giving me a headache. However, I can imagine that some would quite like this blend of piquant violet leaf, tangy geranium and masculine cedar with strawberry, leather and tonka bean. I can understand its name, for it is a study in contrast; however, the name belies its sophistication. The fact that this scent frankly disagrees with my chemistry is unfortunate. Do not let that deter you from trying. I will be curious to hear what you think.

Charogne – I really wanted to like this, if only to temper Charogne’s ridiculous marketing message. Who wants to wear a fragrance of death? In this case, lily is the lightweight in an unfair battle against the metaphorical “beast” of animalic leather. To be direct, this smells like floral tar on my skin. Although slightly sweet, it is still tar. I would not be caught dead wearing this one.

These four do not stand out as my favorites from Etat Libre d’Orange. Regardless, I am detecting a theme. The marketing of these fragrances – their name, the vignettes that underscore their name on the packaging, and the animation depicting each scent – cheapens their outstanding composition. The marketing team probably wanted to present an original idea, perhaps a modern design, to attract customers. However, a sophisticated, classic theme fits them much better.

Etat Libre d’Orange: Sample Pack Review, Part 1 of 3

2011-01-17T13:01:00.001-07:00

My re-entry into obsessing about perfume begins. All it took was finding a sample pack of Etat Libre d’Orange scents that I had ordered from Lucky Scent when they added the line to their inventory. These scents added decadence to my chore-filled weekend; I enjoyed said chores with intermittent inhales of the fragrances on my wrist and hands. Each transported me to a different place and time. In no particular order, I offer my newfound foray into description.

Jasmin et Cigarette – So far, my favorite although I have not yet tried Like This or Don’t Get Me Wrong Baby – both appealing to my sensibilities. If Jasmin et Cigarette’s olfactory stages were arranged on a tabletop, here is that tabletop’s description: a freshly opened pack of non-filter cigarettes front and center, a bouquet of creamy, freshly-picked jasmine blossoms just north of the pack of cigarettes, one lush, just-bitten apricot to the right and scattered tonka bean seeds to the left. Grouped together, the lovely scent offers endless material for the nose. I cannot stop sniffing.

Vraie Blonde – Sparkling, opalescent and pretty, undeniably yellow and youthful, Vraie Blonde is aldehydes just the way I like them: fun. I picture my daughter, faintly smelling of candied fruit, chasing butterflies and picking dandelions as she giggles, her blonde hair blowing in the wind. The promise of suede and curvaceous sexiness eludes me at first. This fragrance spells innocence – far from what the marketing team wants you to believe. In this case, marketers grab your attention and exit stage left. But wait. Just wait. They come back. And they bring the “x” in sexy. After all those flighty aldehydes waft off, what remains is indeed curvaceous, spicy, and sultry (due to soft myrrh, quiet patchouli and luxurious suede) – not my daughter’s perfume but mine, all mine.

Rien – Not a fragrance I would normally wear, but I do find it fascinating. A true study in contrast. Could be categorized as a skin scent but so much more than that – spicy, heady, intoxicating, with a haughty, religious edge; like spotting a dark, brooding, attractive man in church. You want to flirt, desperately, but timing is off. The resinous incense and labdanum negate the sex appeal for me, but maybe that is due to my Catholic Mass attending, sexually frustrated youth. What is left reminds me of a crackling fire, an off-the-shoulder sweater and a hot spiced tea on a cold winter day.

Encens et Bubblegum – Where were you when I was twelve? On the verge of adolescence yet still enthusiastically cuddling puppies and playing hopscotch, this adorable mixture of raspberries, peaches and lily of the valley with vanilla, incense and musk to ground it is so playful and sweet I just want to hug it! Although the marketing language mentions darkness, all I see (and smell) is cuteness and sunshine.

The Etat Libre d'Orange scents are available at Henri Bendel and luckyscent.com. They range in price from $80-99 for 50ml. I recommend luckyscent for samples of each!

Natori Eau de Parfum

2010-09-10T20:03:00.004-07:00

Over the course of the last year, only a few fragrances have caught my eye and my nose. Shall we say I have been a little distracted? Traumatized? In love? On cloud 9? All of the above apply. The attempted hijacking of my family's stability and the birth of my second child converged in the year 2010. The intensity of these experiences cannot be underestimated and yet ... in the midst of the emotion ... Natori caught my interest. Is this the best fragrance of 2010? I highly doubt it. Were there other fragrances that could have captured my attention had I been aware of them? Most definitely.

However, Natori stood out for a reason. I find it utterly mysterious - a rose and plum based chypre full of blurred lines. I am not certain if it is my unexercised nose to blame, but I have a very difficult time deciphering the various notes. I do smell rose petals at first, with some amber and some jasmine second. Purple peony? No. Patchouli? Not so much, thank goodness. Patchouli would ruin its loveliness. Instead, I notice the skin musk note which grows stronger as the fragrance evolves on my skin. Of course, the ylang-ylang piques my interest since I have yet to meet a fragrance with ylang-ylang that I cannot wear.

Ultimately, there is no use trying to pin these notes down. They merge and gather beautifully into a fragrance I find pretty, feminine, and stately, like a determined, focused and characteristically beautiful woman whose inner strength is subtle yet powerful. A woman I aspire to be. She is not giddy and lighthearted and cares not to hang out with the frivolous. She has depth and wisdom. Her Achilles heel? She tends to be a bit somber.

Now I understand its appeal to the woman I have been. Natori was meant for me this year.

Hiatus Ended!!

2010-09-10T16:18:00.002-07:00

I am back from my long, sometimes blissful, sometimes excruciating hiatus! A combination of factors kept me away but I am happy to say blue skies are ahead. I have sorely missed my beloved hobby and my fragrance friends. My writing may suffer for a while until I get back into a groove. So, please bear with me during that process! I am currently wearing Natori Eau de Parfum and plan to review it momentarily!

Cinquieme Sens

2009-09-05T07:32:00.002-07:00

In my wildest dreams, I travel to Paris and develop my love of perfume into a skill. I would imagine other perfume lovers have a similar dream. I am pleased to announce a school of perfumery, with primary headquarters based in Paris, near the Eiffel Tower! How lucky for us that this school is offering courses in the United States. A jaunt to New York City is all it takes!

Here are some details regarding upcoming courses:

2 trainings depending on needs and interests:
- The Perfumer Palette (3 hours): an introductory session to measure olfactory abilities and acquire methods for memorizing odors. September 16, 2009
- Introduction to Technique and Language of Perfumery (2 days): an introduction to the universe of perfume from raw materials to fragrance classification. September 22-23, 2009

For more detailed information, please contact Laura at (212) 686-4135 or laura@cinquiemesense.com. Enjoy!!

Dear Readers

2009-06-07T16:41:00.002-07:00

Hello Dear Readers,

The bad news: My daughter is now 5 and 1/2 months old and I am slowly, very slowly, adjusting to my new life with a baby. She takes top priority. And my old self has expired. I am no longer able to be the woman I was pre-Mommyhood! My outlook on life and priorities in life have changed drastically. With that said, I sincerely apologize for not being able to post as often as I, and mabye you, would like. My goal is to post once per week but I have not been able to keep up with even that in the last few months.

The good news: My love of fragrance and perfume remains intact! I hope that I can deliver on my once/week promise in the coming weeks. As always, thank you for your patience and loyalty. God bless you and yours.

Love,
Tamara

Bond No. 9's Stimulus Package!

2009-05-17T11:00:00.002-07:00

Very rarely does a perfume house offer free perfume and this deal is too good to pass up!

Bring your empty bottles to any Bond No. 9 counter and you'll receive a refill - on them!

Visit Bond No. 9 Sunday, May 31 through Saturday, June 6 at any of the four Bond No. 9 New York City boutiques (9 Bond Street, 680 Madison Ave, 897 Madison Avenue and 399 Bleecker Street) or any Saks Fifth Avenue and receive a refill with a purchase of any two Bond No. 9 items. Here are the details:

Purchase any Bond No. 9 Scented Candles, the I Love New York Double Decker box of a dozen flacons, the Perfumista’s Custom Blending Box, the Bon Bon or Mini Bon Bon Boxes, Body Silk, Solid Perfume Token, OR any of Eaux de Parfum. And of course bring your empty fragrance flacons as well. Then make a purchase of any two of the above, and you will receive a quick refill. What a green idea to lift a perfumista's spirits!

Bond No. 9 Astor Place

2009-04-18T16:12:00.004-07:00

Gemstone colors, warmer temperatures, shorts, sandals, sunscreen, cool, green grass, daffodils in bloom, fluffy clouds in a clear blue sky - all of these have one thing in common: they remind me of spring. I am pleased and honored to review the new offering from one of my favorite houses - Bond No. 9 Astor Place. It represents springtime in a bottle, although its inspiration comes from 4 Astor Place, New York, NY.

"Astor Place, the scent, an intoxicatingly fresh spring floral that starts out with a bold and unapologetically seductive freesia-poppy-violet leaf composition, and then simmers down into the smooth, steady notes of teakwood and musk. It's contemporary Downtown all right, with a lot of grace." Regarding this quote from the press release for the fragrance, I could not have said it better myself. In this case, the marketing description fits perfectly. Floral, flirtatious and graceful drescribe this fresh-as-cut-flowers scent that takes its name from an enclave housing a popular pub, rows of townhomes, a well-known theater and an avante-garde sculpture. They all conspire to create Astor Place - an area buzzing with activity, drawing skateboarders and hairstylists alike.

The juice itself is noteworthy with a long-lasting yet soft floral bouquet that quietly makes its presence known. Violet leaf gives it a freshness reminiscent of dawn on a spring day and although the teakwood and musk are present at the base, the fragrance as a whole possesses a squeaky clean quality. Astor Place would be a great addition to our Perfume for the Occasion: For the Office list for its smoothness, freshness and elegance. Astor Place is indeed a great choice as a Mother's Day gift. It reminds me of the tender, nurturing arms of a mother, a beautiful and graceful mother that is.

The magnificent bottle design, mimicking the mosaic lamp posts and geometric design of "the Cube" of Astor Place in lively spring colors, rounds out this offering from Bond No. 9. Very well done!

Bond No. 9 Astor Place is currently available at Bond No. 9 in two sizes: 100ml for $220 and 50ml for $145. A limited edition 100mL Swarovski crystal bottle is available for Mother's Day for $300.

Tom Ford Champaca Absolute

2009-03-09T15:22:00.004-07:00

My inaugural review following the birth of my daughter needed to feature a fragrance I consider unique, posh and enjoyable. I am pleased to feature a Tom Ford creation for his Personal Blends Collection - a hearty floral with an edge - Champaca Absolute.

I must admit from its description I did not expect to like this fragrance. The notes appeared good enough in writing, but held little promise of captivating my newly evolved nose. (Pregnancy had a profound effect on my appreciation of spicier, heartier scents. I was mostly a floral girl prior to carrying a child.) By description, Champaca Absolute appeared a very heady and sweet floral. What I found instead after testing is a heady floral indeed, white in color, with a pinch of golden warmth, making it likeable and interesting enough to consider a purchase.

Its beginning reminds me of sweet fruit, although it is described by its creator as Tokajii wine and cognac. I experience this layer as succulent rather than intoxicating. However, the fragrance does offer an intoxicating effect which develops much later. Following the initial burst of sweetness, the exotic flowers bloom into being with Champaca leading the way and jasmine following closely behind. Heady, powdery and slightly tea-like, this ultra feminine stage of the fragrance turns heads and noses. A creamy undertone lurks as well, making it completely and utterly likeable, like the soft and enveloping petals of exotic white flowers. Finally, the base holds the golden warmth and intoxication I spoke of earlier, with vanilla bean, amber and marron glace (candied chestnuts) offering the flowers a bewitching quality. Altogether femine, warm and sweet, Champaca Absolute is a winner in my book and one that I envision adding to my collection. It asks to be worn on a cooler day, due to its sweetness, and is probably more appropriate for women than men. I am certain many men will enjoy its charms though!

Tom Ford Private Blend Collection Champaca Absolute is available at Nieman Marcus, $180.00-$450.00 for 50ml-250ml of Eau de Parfum.

Ormonde Jayne Woman

2008-11-28T17:32:00.008-07:00

A pleasant and surprising side effect of my third trimester of pregnancy is an embracing love of scents I normally would not like. I tried Ormonde Jayne Woman years ago, due to the generosity of a friend who owned it, and quickly dismissed it as "not me" moving on to explore other scents from the London Perfumery. How exciting that as I have fully experienced all ten scents from the lovely house in the last month (thank you Samantha and Sarah!), I have fallen completely for the one scent I thought I never would. It even qualifies as an amber scent with a resonating amber base note so I am keeping my promise to review amber fragrances this month.

Before I describe the fragrance, I must reference the philosophy of the house that created it. Ormonde Jayne's creator, Linda Pilkington, opened her doors on November 30, 2002 in London's old Bond Street after a lifelong love affair with scent. In creating the house, her goal was to "combine elements which [she considers] define true elegance: The quality of English craftsmanship, the art of French perfumery and the sensuality and natural harmony of the Orient." In addition to this brilliant philosophy Ormonde Jayne uses only the finest quality oils and essences, sought throughout the world, in their perfumes, candles, bath oils and body treatments. This truly is a luxury fragrance line and I long for the day I can shop in the store.

Ormonde Woman is a stately fragrance, exceptionally unique, unexpectedly warm and woodsy ... and seductively violet. Its development is textbook marked by a definite personality to each stage. A seductive and warm scent, I am charmed by its curious and exceptional foundation: Black Hemlock absolute. In researching this note, I am surprised to find it is simply an evergreen tree indigenous to the western United States, with "wood much harder than Canadian hemlock." Well, that puts it into perspective. Not really. I know nothing about evergreens other than how their scent mesmerizes me during the holiday season. Using this rare note speaks volumes for the originality of its creator.

With a spicy and green opening that lasts several minutes, the senses are awakened and primed for a fragrant voyage. When I first tested, I wanted the opening to define the fragrance and to last forever. The combination of cardamom, coriander and grass oil was simply heavenly to my nose - unlike most any other scent I had experienced. However, in experiencing this exhilarating stage, I was not aware of the beautiful base to come that would enthrall me even more. The heart of the fragrance dances on the skin featuring that gorgeous hemlock and the introduction of violet with jasmine. Woodsy and slightly masculine describes this phase and it is not my favorite, but pleasing enough. The hemlock outshines the flowers making the heart more resinous than one would expect. It is the dark, mysterious yet delicately sweet base that truly sets this fragrance apart as a gorgeous creation. Here, the violet note truly shines! Yet this violet differs from the many violets that have come before, lacking the candied quality of Guerlain L'Heure Bleue and others like it. This is grown-up and sophisticated violet, deep mahogany in color and Lauren Becall in character. For those with a green thumb, this scent reminds me of the color of angelface dark violet. No nonsense and stately, the amber and sandalwood that surround this violet give it depth. And I am in love.

I highly recommend Ormonde Jayne's sample program. All eleven perfumes come housed in a velvet and satin pouch, with free shipping worldwide. Available online at www.ormondejayne.com.

Ormonde Woman is available as Perfume, 50 mL for £112.00 or Eau de Parfum, 50 mL for £58.00. Be sure to investigate bath products and home scents as well, all at www.ormondejayne.com.

A Brief Note

2008-11-13T10:03:00.003-07:00

Hello Dear Readers!

My sincere apologies for a lack of entries over the last few weeks. Closing in on the end of my pregnancy brings with it a "to do" list a mile long along with a jam-packed full-time work schedule in order to prepare for maternity leave. I have some wonderful samples to review, but finding the time to write them is proving challenging. My goal is to have one up by next Friday. So please tell me what you are wearing today. I plan to wear the new Intuition by Ralph Lauren. I liken it to warm and spicy yet soft cocoa powder, a perfect fall scent for a sensitive nose.

Have a wonderful day!

Fall Ball Is Fast Approaching!

2008-10-22T09:26:00.002-07:00

I will not be able to make it this year per strict doctor's orders for no airline travel. Plus, the walking and standing would do me and my feet in by about 10am! However, I will terribly miss the festivities and be thinking of you all this weekend. If you are anything like me, just reading the following creates endorphins in your body. If anyone is willing to pick up a bottle of Bond No. 9 Bryant Park for me, please e-mail me at your convenience! Here is a copy of the e-mail I received Saturday from the amazing Team Karen:

Dear Fragrance Friends:

In just one short week, fragrance lovers from around the globe will be gathering in NYC for the most spectacular fragrance event of the season, the ultra-fabulous Sniffapalooza Fall Ball!

Demand for tickets to this Fall Ball weekend has been so overwhelming, that we regret to tell you that we have only a few precious spaces remaining... and you know how we hate to disappoint anyone. So we urge you to let us know right away if you would like to join your fellow fragrance-lovers for our biggest & best Sniffapalooza yet!

For those of you who are just joining the Sniffapalooza family, the Sniffapalooza Fall Ball is an entire weekend crammed full of olfactory and multi-sensory experiences. You'll come away from the weekend with new knowledge, new friends, lots of new goodies, and a new perspective on a fragrant life. There's nothing else like it on the planet.

This year's event will be Saturday, October 25 - Sunday, October 26. As always, Saturday will be our 'uptown' day, and Sunday will be our 'downtown' day. Here's our itinerary below, with lots of surprises in the works, and many details will be added right up to the last fragrant moment!

Perfumers, guest speakers & presenters you'll meet during the weekend:

Kilian Hennessy of By Kilian; Joe Garces of Robert Piguet; Tom Crutchfield of Asprey, Annick Goutal, Etro, & Judith Leiber; Dovanna Pagowski & Chely De Pablos of Acqua di Parma; Shelley Levendos of Donna Karan Collection; Maree Damm of Boucheron; Sandi Burrows of Serge Lutens; Brian Kurtz of L'Artisan Parfumeur; Mary Claire Pedone of Jo Malone; Theresa Dickinson of Creed; John Bain of Van Cleef & Arpel; Geri Verlaque of Chanel; Katy Jourav of Tom Ford; Sonia Ciliberti & Jason Beers of Guerlain; Montgomery Taylor of Ambre de Venezia; Ulrich Lang of Parfums Ulrich Lang; Neil Morris of Neil Morris Fragrances; Sarah Barton-King of The Pink Room; Patty Namm of Brandy Perfume; Janna Sheehan of Trance Essence; Lee Cuthbert of Intelli-Scents; Avery Gilbert, author of 'What the Nose Knows'; Adelaide Farah of Beauty Fashion Magazine; Phoebe Ellis, Natasha Cote, & Irina Burlakova of Seven Skies Perfume; perfumer Roxana Villa; Christopher Voigt of Vetivresse.com; Raphaella Brescia of Sniffapalooza Magazine; Salomeh Daley from Memoire Liquide; Cathy Gins of Aromawear; Laetitia Longuefosse of Cinquieme Sens; Rainer of Linari; perfumer Gerald Dubose; Pedro de Leana; perfume designer Linda Gerlach; Sabine Hernandez of Amouage; Olyesa Inaovitch of Bill Blass Fragrances; Alex Mehfar of Le Cherche Midi; Jessica Dunne of Ellie D; and Miriam Mirani from Aqaba.

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 25

8:15-10:00am The famous Breakfast with *14 speakers and presentations* at Bergdorf Goodman ****PLEASE NOTE: Breakfast limited to the first 65 guests to sign up & is SOLD OUT.The other guests will arrive at 10am & meet all the breakfast speakers & get the stuffed-to-the-brim gift bag!

10:00am-12:00pm Sniffing time on the beauty floor at BG, meet special guests & presenters from the breakfast, exclusive offers, makeup artists, that incredible raffle & those legendary gift bags.

NEW LAUNCHES & MUST SNIFFS: By Kilian Prelude to Love & Sophie Matisse bottles, Tom Ford White Patchouli, Tom Ford Private Blend, Creed Love in Black, L'Artisan Fleur de Liane, Jo Malone Sweet Lime & Cedar, Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes, Judith Leiber Parfum, Donna Karan Collection, Acqua di Parma Profumo, Guerlain Les Charnals, Chanel Eau Premiere, Chanel Les Exclusifs, Van Cleef Feerie, Serge Lutens Serge Noire & Santal de Mysore, B Boucheron, Ajne, Ineke, Estee Lauder Private Collection Amber Ylang Ylang, JAR, Le Cherche Midi, Clive Christian, Prada, Apothia, Caron, Mona di Orio, 10 Corso Como, Antica Farmacista.

12:30-2:30pm Prix Fixe lunch at Opia restaurant - *13 special speakers*, party favors, fragrance games, Sniffapalooza Magazine raffle, Beauty Fashion Magazine promotion, unbelievable gift bags! (Registration required)

2:45-4:15pm Sniffing & dessert at Takashimaya, with special guests, presentations, terrific promotions, those amazing cupcakes and mango tea, and goodies to take home.

PERK: 10% off all fragrance purchases!NEW LAUNCHES & MUST SNIFFS: Neil Morris for Takashimaya, YOSH Olfactory Sense, The Pink Room, Histoire des Parfums, Le Cherche Midi, Septimanie, Keiko Mecheri, Miller et Bertot Shanti Shanti, Summersent, E.Coudray, Pedro de Leana Sensaciones Collection, Fragonard, Detaille 1905, Acqua di Biella, Divine, The Different Company.4:15-5:45pm Sniffing at Henri Bendel, with special guests, the exclusive fantastic Sniffapalooza GWP, refreshments, and gifts.PERK: 10% off all purchases when opening HB charge

NEW LAUNCHES & MUST SNIFFS: Etat Libre d'Orange Bendelirious, Salvador Dali line, L'Artisan Eau de Liane, Aftelier, Privet Bloom, Caron, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Apothia, Isabella Capeto, Teo Cabanel, Ellie D, Juliette Has a Gun Citizen Queen, Kai, Child, Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes, Memoire Liquide, Aqaba.

6:00-8:00pm Cocktails & refreshments for the 60th anniversary party for Fracas at Spafumerie!

For this event only, original Robert Piguet dresses will be on view, flown in for Sniffapalooza from Paris. Also, several niche fragrance lines that we saw in Italy will be brought in for this event!

PERK: 10% discount on all purchases! Manicure gift certificate with $200 purchase! Facial gift certificate with $250 purchase!

EXTRA SPECIAL: Fracas 60th Anniversary Limited Edition Coffret, special price for Sniffapalooza!

NEW LAUNCHES & MUST SNIFFS: Bois 1920, Isabey Gardenia, Tarantella, Costume National, Laura Tonnato, full Robert Piguet line, Juliette Has a Gun

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 26

10:00-11:30am The famous Brunch & Sniffing at Bond No. 9! Meet Bond No. 9 fragrance specialists, sample new Andy Warhol Lexington Avenue, and fantastic gift bags.

PERK: 15% discount on all purchases.

MUST SEE: The Robert Lee Morris Andy Warhol jewelry collection.

MUST SNIFF: Andy Warhol Silver Factory, Union Square, Lexington Avenue and dazzling Bond No. 9 holiday gift sets!

11:00am-5:00pm Open House sniffing at Le Labo. Meet founders Eddie & Fabrice & specialist Bo Jade & have your purchases custom-labelled!

MUST SNIFF: Exclusive New York scent - Tubereuse 40, and scented notepads in cult-scent Santal 26!

12:00-1:00pm Sniffing at Lafco NY, with sampling, refreshments, special gifts. Meet Creative Team Jon Bresler & Segen Scott. PERK: 20% discount on all purchases.

NEW LAUNCHES & MUST SNIFFS: Linari new fragrance line created by perfumer Mark Buxton - meet Rainer, the President of Linari! Eau d'Italie Baume du Doge, most comprehensive selection of Santa Maria Novella products in the US, Lorenzo Villoresi, Claus Porto.

1:00-4:00pm Prix Fixe lunch at Country Cafe, with *6* speakers, party favors, and the incredible Sniffapalooza Magazine raffle!

Two seatings for lunch:

First seating: 1:00-2:30pm
Second seating: 2:30-4:00pm

While the first group is dining, the second seating group will visit L'Artisan Parfumeur right across the street for sampling & treats & an introduction to the new Fleur de Liane. (This L'Artisan location has the most comprehensive selection of L'Artisan products in the city!) Likewise, for the second seating group.

** Please note that those choosing the second seating will have more time at Bond No.9, Le Labo, and Lafco NY. If you need to catch a flight or make a train, you should choose the first seating. First seating diners must be seated promptly by 1:00pm.

**Sunday Lunch Seating is Extremely Limited

4:30-6:00pm Prosecco Bellinis & sniffing at Aedes de Venustas. Samples, special guests, exclusive launches & gift bags. Meet creative team Robert & Karl.

MUST SNIFF: Lalique Amethyst, By Kilian Prelude to Love, Amouage Lyric Man & Lyric Woman, Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes, Aedes de Venustas EdP by L'Artisan Parfumeur, Brandy, Andy Tauer Vetiver Dance, Serge Lutens Serge Noire, Escentric Molecules, 3 new Diptyque candles & new Diptyque bath & body line, Lubin Nuit de Longchamp, Lubin L de Lubin, Carthusia, Heeley, Penhaligons Elixir, Parfums D'Empire, Molinard, Anvers & Anvers 2, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Miller et Bertot,Creed Love in Black.

The rates for Sniffapalooza Fall Ball 2008 are as follows:

Saturday, 10/25: $70 covers event & lunch Sunday, 10/26: $70 covers event, brunch & lunch Full weekend: $140 covers events 10/25 & 10/26, lunches both days, the brunch on Sunday, and the BG breakfast (only if you were one of the first 65 people to sign up).

A portion of each registration fee will be donated to a very special charity for Multiple Sclerosis.

You can register at http://www.sniffapalooza.com/ via PayPal. You will need to log in with your Username and Password to access the “Event Registration” page. If you have questions or need to make other payment arrangements, please contact Karen Adams at kadams@sniffapalooza.com.

If you are visiting NYC from out-of-town, there are some incredible last-minute deals to be had on airfare and hotels!!! Please visit expedia.com, hotels.com, hotwire.com, & travelzoo.com, etc. - and you'll see what we mean!

While you're counting the days to Sniffapalooza Fall Ball, please check out our award-winning on-line fragrance magazine, SNIFFAPALOOZA MAGAZINE, at http://www.sniffapaloozamagazine.com/. Subscriptions are free!!! The current two issues are a tribute to Fall Ball and you can get a preview of all the new launches and what you'll experience next weekend!

If you've attended a Sniffapalooza before, you know what an incredible experience awaits you...If you haven't, you're in for the time of your life!

**Team Karen cannot be responsible for any addictions to Sniffapalooza, or withdrawal symptoms that may result after the event is over. If such symptoms occur, please go immediately to the nearest fragrance counter.

We can't wait to see all our old friends again and meet our new ones! And remember, *accept no imitations* - this is the ONE and ONLY *SNIFFAPALOOZA*!

Viva La Sniffa, Baby!

TEAM KAREN
Karen Dubin, Founder & Director
Karen Adams, Executive Operations Manager
http://www.sniffapalooza.com/
http://www.sniffapaloozamagazine.com/

I've been Tagged!

2008-10-21T13:35:00.003-07:00

Like Divina, "I don’t really do tagging games, or I thought I didn’t." But a bout with the flu and consequential boredom leads me to play. Thank you for the diversion from my sick bed ladies! First, the rules:

1. Link to the person who tagged you (The lovely and warm Divina at Fragrance Bouquet and the talented Jenavira at Scent of Abricots).

2. Post the rules on your blog.

3. Write six random things about yourself.

4. Tag six people at the end of your post and link to them.

5. Let each person know they've been tagged and leave a comment on their blog.

6. Let the tagger know when your entry is up.

Six Random Tamara things:

1) I jumped out of an airplane at 14,000 feet. And I have the video to prove it! It is the craziest and most courageous thing I have ever done yet I've never felt more alive!

2) I started playing classical piano when I was nine years old. I was very good and miss it terribly. My favorite composers include Bach, Beethoven and Mozart. Some day I will have a baby grand in my living room and I'll teach my daughter to play.

3) Walking for 20 minutes three times per week and doing prenatal yoga once per week is about all I can muster in terms of exercise these days! My growing little girl accounts for my laziness.

4) I love interior design and secretly wish I had gone to school for it. I study it as a hobby but wish I had more skill!

5) My personal spiritual pursuit for the next 40 days until Thanksgiving is to write down ten things I'm grateful for and why, every day.

6) I can curl my tongue four ways.

Now the people I will tag are: lovely Marina over at Perfume Smellin' Things, witty A. at Style Spy, crafty Gaia at the Non-Blonde, funny and talented Annieytown at Blogdorf Goodman, Victoria at Victoria's Own whom I miss terribly, and the kind-hearted Raphaella at Sniffapalooza Magazine!

Comme des Garçons Series 4 Anbar

2008-10-18T09:09:00.004-07:00

After browsing through my list of perfume reviews written over the last two years, it shocks me that not one scent from this unique line has been included. Therefore, I am proud to introduce Comme des Garçons, a Japanese fashion label founded in 1969 committed to excellence in fragrance. According to Wikipedia, Comme des Garçons released their first fragrance, named after the company, in 1994 and has since been committed to developing fine, unisex scents based upon non-traditional notes.

For this month's Amber devotion, I picked the refreshing Series 4 Anbar. The Series 4: Cologne collection contains three scents, all in cologne form, designed to be splashed and applied liberally while remaining remarkably close to the skin. (Read: the wearer will not overwhelm others but rather draw others closer to take a whiff of light scent.) True to form, these scents play on the skin for a short while. What they are not is a day-to-night fragrance to be applied in the morning with bottom notes lasting until dusk. Therein lies their charm and uniqueness.

I was quite surprised with Anbar at first sniff due to its abundance of citrus. The notes include mandarin, amber, carnation and musk. Had I been aware of its cologne status prior to testing, I would have been more prepared for a clean scent substituting a warm and dirty aroma. This amber lazily mopes in the background, while the mandarin and carnation dance together for most of the scent's development. Slightly sweet, mostly clean and quite manly smelling, Anbar provides a fantastic deviation from the artificial body sprays of the world and is light enough to be applied liberally before heading off to work. How I wish I could carry a bottle of this with me for every man who made me gag during early pregnancy. I would hand it off politely and say, "Try this instead of showering in whatever you are wearing on your skin." Yes, Series 4 Anbar would have been welcome to grace my nose any day when I was most sensitive. Even today, I find it invigorating and eye-opening.

In conclusion, I am impressed with Comme des Garçons as a house and must try other offerings after discussing their scent philosophy. Although Series 4 Anbar is not for me, at its affordable price point I will be purchasing a bottle for my husband. I am still searching for a bombshell amber to call my own! More on that next week.

The reason we perfumistas love Luckyscent so much is their ability to make obscure fragrances available in the United States. I am happy to say Comme des Garçons Series 4 Anbar is available at www.luckyscent.com. Although it is currently backordered, it will be available to ship October 20, 2008. A 125mL splash bottle retails for $52.

Image courtesy of luckyscent.

Post Delay

2008-10-17T13:44:00.000-07:00

We are currently experiencing technical difficulties. Post to follow when they are resolved! Thank you for your patience.

Fresh Mandarine Amber

2008-10-10T18:13:00.005-07:00

Before I begin, I must provide a disclaimer. It has been over six months since I have written an extensive and well researched perfume review and I am quite rusty! As with mastering any skill, consistent practice is essential to creative writing and I am so long out of practice I am embarrassed. So please forgive my awkwardness and brevity in writing. I promise I will smooth out my style as I become re-accustomed to this art form.

I received Fresh Mandarine Amber as part of a sample packet from the Perfumed Court. I have become mesmerized by amber fragrances of late; therefore I ordered a smattering of sophisticated ambers to dazzle my nose as the days in the inferno become cooler (and my growing little girl prepares for her debut!)

Unfortunately, my first pick of the set is impossible to find online. I have had trouble even getting a list of notes! So I will relay as best I can the qualities of this scent. Upon first sniff, I am overwhelmed with what seems like a cardamom-gingery accord. It is nice enough but most certainly reminiscent of a spice rack and it progresses to celery seed as the scent develops. Mandarin, if it is present, is entirely overwhelmed by the spices to which I refer. Any hint of sweetness at the top is very quickly replaced by a a flat, uninspiring and watered-down bouquet. In fact, it reminds me of the herbs I was taking in preparation for pregnancy, as prescribed by my acupuncturist. They smelled okay before mixed with water but were horrid to drink. I braced myself the three times per day I had to ingest them. Mandarine-Amber is not that scowl-inducing but it does remind me of the scent of the herbs.

The last disappointment is the absolute absence of that lovely amber accord I so anxiously await. I am searching for warmth, a little sweetness and lots of sex appeal and I find none. Just. Spice racks. Perhaps this is why the scent is not available to the masses. Maybe like the progression of the fragrance on my skin, its appeal to fragrance mavens just fizzled? It always breaks my heart when I cannot uncover one redeeming quality about a fragrance. But in this case, I cannot. All is not lost, however. There are many other more enigmatic Fresh fragrances to choose from! I may review another one soon. And next week's amber pick will be a bombshell!

As mentioned in my review, I was unable to locate a bottle or price online. If any readers have more information about this fragrance, please fill me in and I will update!

For the Love of Amber

2008-10-06T19:09:00.002-07:00

For the next few weeks, I will be reviewing upscale scents that feature an "amber" note. Before I do, however, I would like to briefly discuss the use of this "note" in fragrance. It is a fallacy. Truly. I know. You may be shocked, but extracting the actual scent of the gemstone would be akin to extracting blood from a turnip. Amber in its natural state is simply fossilized deposits of tree resins, much like stones. It is therefore next to impossible to extract any semblance of a scent from these beautiful products of nature. Conversely, amber in scent is a combination of notes that create a golden, honeyed, earthy and warm quality. Together they conspire to create a fragrance that smells like golden amber would smell. The idea is magnificent and I have always found myself drawn to amber fragrances, especially when summer turns to fall and I reach for warmer clothing - clothing that traps and magnifies the warm qualities of an amber fragrance. But alas. These gorgeous fragrances are created with an idea in mind rather than utilizing true amber. (Sorcery of Scent did a terrific job of discussing amber in fragrance this past July!)

I will discuss Fresh Mandarin Amber on Friday.

New Chanel at Bergdorf Goodman

2008-10-02T16:48:00.003-07:00

I received an exciting phone call today about new offerings from Chanel! First, Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiere is now available! It is touted as a "light, softer, fresher" interpretation of No. 5. I adore No. 5 but I know many who cannot wear it. Try the new Eau Premiere which retails at $125 for 5 oz. Also, the Chanel counter is offering a gift set featuring parfum samples of the best selling fragrances, including No. 5, Coco, Coco Mademoiselle and Allure! This set may just be the first item on my 2008 Christmas list. We all know parfums last longer and are more concentrated, so a few applications of each would suit me just fine! For more information, contact Josie at the Chanel counter: 1.888.774.2424.

Update: Eau Premiere made its debut in 2007 so please take that into account when reading this post. Bergdorf Goodman announced it as new, but it is actually one year old. Thanks to Gail for researching the matter!

Bear With Me ...

2008-09-15T14:15:00.003-07:00

Since my days of regular blogging have long past and I am nearly six months away from my three times per week posts, I have discovered that my fragrance sample cabinets and baskets are desperately bare. Therefore, in order to provide you with up-to-date and timely information, I am awaiting a few packages in the mail! Please bear with me as I anxiously await more subjects for review and writing.

In the meantime, this is what I was doing this past weekend - celebrating our growing baby!

And The Pregnancy Scent Award Goes To ...

2008-08-29T18:17:00.003-07:00

...

Gendarme Sky!!!

Please read my review from February 2007, linked above to the name. Chills ran up my spine as I read my words of description from well over one year ago. Now that I am carrying a baby girl, softness ranks among one of my top priorities when it comes to just about everything. This scent is perfect in every way for my delicate nose. Its aroma softens my mood and my step and prepares me for comforting a child, just as my hormones do. Thank you to Mr. Schroeder for creating this pillow of a scent.

Have a fabulous holiday weekend, those of you in the United States!

Only the Pregnant Nose Knows

2008-08-22T06:00:00.002-07:00

"I was feeling fine just doing the dishes. I opened my husband's tupperware container that he brought home from lunch and the horrid smell sent me running to the bathroom!"

"I took one whiff of the green pepper- and onion-laced fajitas in the Mexican restaurant and I felt like I was going to faint."

"An over-applied men's cologne did it. It assaulted me! I just couldn't get within a few feet of that man without gagging."

"I absolutely cannot subject myself to the smell of cigarette smoke lately. It makes me nauseated within a few minutes."

These comments are sentiments only the female gender can truly understand. All of them have one thing in common: they come from a pregnant nose. Only during pregnancy can a woman detect scent from miles away. It makes for an adventurous nine months for certain, and possibly adds to the richness of her life as well. When else will the nose be as keen as a cat's? Or the world as rich in odor? An abundance of divine smells embrace her. Scents like fresh cut grass, lettuce, ginger, lemons, mint, rosemary, fresh cut flowers, and her beloved's skin can inspire a pleasure in her she has never known. On the contrary, scents that normally evade or seemingly disappear on her are the source of nagging discomfort and illness. The only solace is to completely remove the source of the odor, take a stroll in fresh air or bury her nose in an orange (which I have done quite often). In fact, the sense of smell is so closely linked to morning sickness during pregnancy that one study found anosmic (possessing no sense of smell) women never experience pregnancy-associated nausea.

What is the culprit for this heightened sense of smell? Hormones - those lovely chemicals responsible for sheltering the baby, keeping it cozy, warm and growing inside. Estrogen in this case is the primary offender. This essential female hormone is abundantly excreted in a pregnant woman's body. As unpleasant as the experience can be for Mama, estrogen has been shown in studies to be responsible for fetal maturation and maintaining the pregnancy. A very important role it possesses, indeed!

My personal experience has elicited the following smell aversions: every fragrance in my collection (much to my chagrin), meat, cigarettes (either freshly lit or lingering on a smoker's body), coffee, garlic, hairspray and most heavily scented cosmetics, my husband's Gris Clair by Serge Lutens (my apologies Mr. Lutens!) and many men's colognes, cleaning products, and ultimately anything with a very strong scent. Fortunately I have not had to rush to the bathroom. I simply avert my nose, leave the room ... and .... do not wear most of my perfumes. What an astonishing outcome and one that I never expected!

My personal theory says that these hormonal influences also protect our baby from noxious chemicals and other harmful substances. Why else would we cringe, vomit, or gag when faced with scents we could easily endure pre-pregnancy? These reactions require immediate response. It is as if our baby is reaching up and directing our physiological reactions, saying "Mom! Stop sniffing! Now! It's too much for me!" A beautiful thing is Mother Nature. I respect her immensely.

Fortunately, my estrogen levels must have dropped recently since I can endure more and more scents from my collection. This must be one of the benefits of being in the second half of my pregnancy. However, the amount I spray is a fraction of what I used to and I can smell most scents on my skin until I shower them off. This might be a good time to re-try scents that seemed to disappear on me before - scents like Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle (am I redeemed now?), Maitre Parfumer et Gantier Soie Rouge and Estee Lauder Azuree Oil. I will let you know how that experiment goes.

For the previously or currently pregnant, what were your smell aversions? What smells did you love?

I'm BAAAaaack!

2008-08-12T08:21:00.003-07:00

Hello Friends!

I have missed you so. During my hiatus I endured an aversion to perfume/fragrance that left me stumped and feeling lonely. My only solace was my supportive husband and this beautiful baby GIRL (!!!) growing inside me along with the knowledge that some day I will be able to tolerate scent once again. That day has come and although my enthusiasm is shrouded with caution, I can enjoy the olfactory sense enough to share ideas with you at least once per week. With all of the commotion that will take place over the next few months, I feel that is a realistic goal. So here we are!

This Friday, I will post a piece on the pregnant nose. Next week, I plan to review the one scent that I adore these days. Please stay tuned to discover that gem. Finally, I would love to hear your Scent of the Day. Mine is Montale Fruits of the Musk - a delicious berry fusion with musk and grey amber which trumps most of its contemporaries (such as Trish McEvoy #9 and Philosophy Falling In Love. The latter smells like Jolly Ranchers candy to my nose). Fruits of the Musk achieves a balance and sophistication that the others lack, and I find it deliciously comforting.

Thank you for your patience and I look forward to reuniting with you all!

Ramblings of a Pregnant Perfumista

2008-05-26T12:06:00.004-07:00

Hello dear readers! I hope you are well, enjoying your fragrances and resting this holiday weekend. My life has changed drastically over the last few months, as you can imagine. I never thought I would be so disinterested in my perfume collection and I find it somewhat disturbing. There are times that I will be lounging on the couch (which is quite often these days due to fatigue and sickness) and I will suddenly think of all my beautiful bottles. I run through each of them in my mind, conjuring up their scent and asking myself, "Does that sound nice?" with each one. I have yet to find one that does. Even my beloved Annick Goutal Les Nuits d'Hadrien left me unimpressed this past Saturday night after I spritzed a tiny amount on my wrist before a party. I long for the day that I can enjoy fragrance once again! The only scent that sounds remotely interesting to me right now is Jo Malone Verbenas de Provence, a lovely citrusy light-as-a-breeze and refreshing scent. I imagine inhaling it as I do fresh oranges and lemons lately, pressing them to my nose to drown out other disturbing and overwhelming scents. In fact, citrus is the only scent that always smells good to my hormone-filled senses right now and I find it the perfect antidote to nausea. Even mint is a little too much at times.

Again, I appreciate your patience and understanding during this time of respite and wonder. I definitely need the break because my body and mind become exhausted after four or more hours of activity. I cannot imagine taxing my mind for another two to three hours to write a review. But I miss you all terribly! Please, tell me what you are wearing these days.

May God bless all fallen soldiers today and every day.

Image courtesy of http://neptune.lunarpages.com/~mindsc1/stuff/citrus.htm

Mother's Day Announcement

2008-05-10T16:07:00.002-07:00

My Dear Readers,

I never thought I would have to write this. This blog has been an integral part of my life for over one year and I derive so much pleasure and enjoyment from it. It has taught me so much and I have made some wonderful friends! However, I have to take a temporary break. You see, Mr. TMH and I are expecting!! As a result, this week was the first week where I really started to abhor scent and it is getting worse by the day. I get headaches and nausea from a simple sniff so the thought of writing an entire review is overwhelming to my nose and body, and of course the little miracle growing inside. It has been a long, hard road for us to have a child so this miracle deserves every ounce of energy I have! I am so sorry to disappoint temporarily but I know that you are all wonderful people and that you understand. I promise to come back as soon as possible!! In the meantime, keep smelling, sampling and investigating those harder to find fragrances.

On a brighter note, Happy Mother's Day to all mothers! Your nurturing, protection, care and hard work deserve applause, this weekend and every day.

Much love to all,

Tamara

Post Delay

2008-05-09T16:14:00.002-07:00

Hello Dear Readers,

My schedule did not allow for an entry today so in lieu of it I will post tomorrow Saturday. Please stay tuned and enjoy your Friday evening!

Thanks!

Antonia's Flowers Floret

2008-05-07T02:00:00.000-07:00

I had the pleasure of meeting Antonia herself in New York City last fall. Quite a humble and kind woman she is; humble in the sense that she has created amazing fragrances and simply sees herself as being of service to the perfume community, and kind in the sense that she gave items to me and my contemporaries that are quite valuable. One of these items is a gorgeous purse sized spray of a delightfully floral, fruity fragrance called Floret. Inspired by the "rambling" sweet peas in her grandmother's garden, the bouquet centers mostly around the pinky, purple flower. With marigold, apricot, lily of the valley, rose and tuberose added, the bouquet is as sweet as springtime, as fruity as punch and just downright precious. I get loads of lily of the valley which makes me very happy. I was quite a fan of the flower as a little girl and they grew abundantly in our back yard. I adored the tiny little bells that adorned the large green leaves and wondered how I could bottle their delicate scent. So Floret finds a place in my book for a full bottle purchase simply for realizing my childhood dreams. It reminds me of all things innocent, sweet and cheerful - like a smiling little girl in a frilly dress. I will wear it on days that I am feeling particularly girly and whimsical, to add bounce to my step and sweetness in my wake. No more than one or two spritzes is all you need! The staying power on my skin lasts all day. Pardon me for being particularly short-winded today. As you may agree with your own experience, I know a good thing when I smell it!

Floret is available in EDT and EDP formulations and ranges anywhere in price from $21 for a purse spray to $140 for a 2 oz. EDP custom bottle. Matching body lotion is also available, all at antoniasflowers.com. Image from said website.

Perfume for the Occasion: Weddings Part II, For the Bride and Groom

2008-05-05T04:00:00.001-07:00

This topic is very near and dear to my heart. In planning our wedding, I discovered that I really enjoyed it. Granted, there was the usual nervousness, perfectionist approach, and borderline obsession with creating a beautiful day, but overall I loved the project management aspect of wedding planning – so much that I considered, for a short time, becoming a professional wedding planner. The cost and risk involved in starting my own business and the current stability of my career ultimately scared me away. I have talked about my ideas since with close friends. I would like to specifically help brides on a budget create a wedding just as gorgeous and meaningful as those with over $30K to spend. (The average wedding cost in my city is $27,000 which, as a nervous and frugal bride, I thought was a little ridiculous.) Maybe some day …

In lieu of planning other people’s weddings, what better topic for us to choose for Perfume for the Occasion than the fragrances brides and grooms should wear on their big day? The vast majority agree that picking something already loved by your fiancé is a key consideration. One week before your big day is not the time to rush out and buy the latest trendy fragrance. (Of course, if you receive a fragrance as a gift from a family member or your fiancé the day of the event, by all means wear it for sentimental reasons.) You may already be incredibly certain as to what you will wear, based upon reactions from your beloved. However, for those who do not have anything in mind, Divina of Fragrance Bouquet and I offer some choices that will steer you in the right direction.

This is perhaps the most personal fragrance choice you will ever make since most brides will always remember what they wore on their wedding day. (I wore Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier because my husband adores it!) Make sure to find something you both love by testing the following picks:

For the Romantic

Did your fiancé plan an amazing proposal? Are you choosing songs like “At Last” by Ella Fitzgerald for your play list? These scents will whisk you away to starry nights, candlelit dinners and hushed voices.

Bride:

Laura Mercier Eau de Lune – a soft, ethereal whisp of a floral scent that reminds me of Julia Andrews in love in the Sound of Music. I believe this is one of the most romantic florals available on the market!

Guerlain Jardins de Bagatelle EDP - full of innocence and promise, white flowers beckon you to a beautiful, romantic garden where your beloved awaits.

Hanae Mori Eau Fraiche - this recent limited edition would be a perfect compliment to any bride who wishes to smell simultaneously sweet and fresh. Most importantly, it contains a peony note which is the symbol for long-lasting love and feminine beauty among the Chinese.

Groom: I Profumi di Firenze Terra di Sienna – what better scent for a groom who is a lover of all things romantic than one from a city of romance: Florence? When my husband wears this soft, romantic and warm scent, I know what lies ahead will be at the very least fun, at the very most incredibly memorable.

For the Traditionalist

For the bride and groom who enjoy tradition and would rather not set any new trends on their wedding day, these scents offer a classic option that will not offend you or any of your guests. And they just might deem your wedding unforgettable.

Bride:
Jean Patou Joy – this legendary fragrance was created in 1935 by Henri Alméras for Patou at the height of the Great Depression. The scent was designed for Patou’s former clients who could no longer afford his fashions, according to Wikipedia. A quintessential classic foral heavily focused on roses, it would compliment a traditional bride superbly.

Chanel No. 22 EDT – another classic from Chanel that has stood the test of time. No. 22 is powdery green, effervescent, clean, innocent and nostalgic, perfect for a bride who is sweet and fresh but who desires to be classic.

Christian Dior Diorissimo – a timeless classic of clear, soft composition centering upon muguet and tuberose that is reminiscent of a spring garden.

DSH Perfumes The Perfect Bride – a superb, feminine blend of flowers that will beautifully match any flower arrangements you choose, as well as any dress!

Groom:
Goeffrey Beene Grey Flannel – unanimously one of the best selling fragrances for men and the women who love them, this treasured classic is sure to please your bride.

DSH For the Groom – an understated and complimentary blend for the groom who has time to order online and test. Dshperfumes.com will not disappoint you!

For the Nervous

I have yet to observe a wedding where both the bride and groom were pillars of calm and serenity. For those who believe in the powers of aromatherapy and would like their fragrance choice to benefit them, I offer a few fantastic choices with lavender as headline, known for its anti-stress properties.

Bride: Andy Tauer Reverie au Jardin – this choice could work for both the bride and groom but I offer it for the bride because of its sweet, powdery qualities. This soft, incredibly interesting blend offers enough lavender to calm nerves without overwhelming.

Groom: Caron Pour un Homme - a soothing blend of lavender atop a warm, ambery vanilla that smells, quite simply, like a gentleman. One spritz is all you need.

For the Earthy

Do you buck most tradition and instead opt for a simple, low-budget wedding in a beautiful setting? Do you prefer picking wild flowers to hiring a florist? How about flip flops instead of shoes? These choices will offer a stunning addition to your meaningful day.

Bride: Guerlain Cruel Gardenia – an incredible offering from Guerlain’s L'Art et la Matiere line that blends gorgeous florals with a grounding, earthy, and warm base. This choice is a fantastic one for any bride, but I offer it for the earthy because I detect so much of the gorgeous base notes.

Groom: Hermes Terre d’Hermes – an earthen yet uplifting scent that offers contrasting notes to create something truly stellar. Grapefruit juxtaposed to woods, cedar and patchouli with a velvety dry down renders the fragrance fabulous without extra “frills.”

For the Fashion Plate

Finally for those who insist on wearing the latest designer gowns and/or tuxes, choosing the trendiest accessories, and creating a day that will go down in history as one of the coolest ever, these choices are for you!

Bride: Stella Absolute Rose – this gorgeous rose based in amber is not only unforgettable but created by arguably one of the most trend-setting designers today: Stella McCartney. Please read my review for a description of this refined scent, perfect for a wedding day.

Groom: Chanel Egoїste or Platinum Egoїste – Alluring, sexy and fashion forward, these fragrances will compliment a man devoted to looking and smelling good.

Should you have any questions about where to find my suggestions, please leave them in the comments section and I will do my best to help you find them. Most are widely commercially available. Enjoy your day and turn your mind into a video camera to capture every moment. If there is one thing that all of us who are married know, it is that the day goes by way too quickly. Try to savor every delicious moment. Most importantly, best wishes for a lifetime of happiness together!

Images are from my own wedding, courtesy of elysehall.com

Perfume History: Colette Advises Women

2008-05-02T12:29:00.003-07:00

From the pages of Perfume: Joy, Obsession, Scandal, Sin by Richard Stamelman comes an interesting vignette about Colette, a legendary woman who opened her own boutique, Société Colette, in 1932 - quite a feat if you ask me! Following the opening of the boutique in June of that year, which drew the most elite of Paris society, she continued her ongoing interest in fragrance, makeup, skincare, fashion and writing. When a critic labeled her as an "olfactory novelist" she graciously accepted the idea, claiming "I have followed my nose, and it has always led me to what is best and worst."

She was quite passionate about fragrance and it came through in her glorious writing. Most interesting, however is her suggestion of one signature fragrance. The following is from page 257 of the book mentioned above:

Colette favored floral fragrances for herself and for the women readers to whom she offered advice. "Any perfume that does not have a vegetal origin," she counsels, "can be nothing more than a passing fancy of fashion." There are scents around "that could kill a bull. In a restaurant, at the theater, women leave fragrances in their wake that cut one's appetite or detract from what is happening on the screen or the stage"("Parfums," Paysages, 150).* Women with "nez fins," like Colette, are too sensitive to embrace perfumes that are not conservative, classic or what she calls "eternal like the flower that is their inspiration." It is vital that women not flutter like "drunken bees" ("Parfums," Paysages, 151, 153) from one perfume to another: "Madame, you who read my words, I hope you never have ... a 'new' perfume." A woman must practice a certain self-denial by remaining faithful "to a well-chosen perfume, linked to your moral person, to your physical charms, a perfume your friends love and recognize, one that surprises people you meet for the first time and that makes them dream" ("Parfums," Paysages, 152).

In addition, Colette was a particular fan of "white" fragrances including notes such as jasmine, gardenia, tuberose and white tobacco. Oh, would she be aghast at the state of the perfume industry today! The quest to launch new and ultimately mediocre fragrances, the plethora of different genres of scent and the deviation from truly beautiful white florals. I think she would be quite pleased, however, with Estee Lauder's Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia and even Guerlain's Cruel Gardenia. I have a difficult time with her idea of loyalty to one scent although I see the value in finding one stunningly stellar scent that defines me, or that I define. There is a certain fun and whimsy in the "drunken bee" analogy that aptly fits my attitude toward fragrance. Yet, it certainly would simplify my life to settle down with just one. My question is, "Why?" when there are so many beautiful scents to be tried and discovered - scents that tomes are written about. Sniffapalooza is devoted to people of the "drunken bee" type and we certainly have no qualms about it! So today dear reader, please comment on your thoughts of claiming one fragrance as your own. According to Colette's criteria, if you had to pick just one, which would it be and why?

My possibilities:

Chanel No. 5, Chanel Cristalle or Molinard Nirmali

Chanel No. 5 is a fragrance I could wear for the rest of my life. It is close to the skin, classic and sparkling. Yet sometimes it feels too mature for me. Chanel Cristalle is again a classic, much younger in feel and greener than No. 5 and it would suit my positive outlook on life. Molinard Nirmali is perhaps the best fit with fruity and floral notes that would probably never bore me. It has curves and sex appeal and in my best moments I have the former and would love to possess the latter!

*Precisely the reason Divina and I have developed "Fragrance for the Occasion!"

Image of bee courtesy of pdphoto.org

Ajne deLavande

2008-04-30T11:18:00.005-07:00

Do you consider yourself sensitive to perfume? Harsh chemicals? Histamines? Or do you long for a stellar fragrance derived only from plants? Are you a mother awaiting the birth of your child and searching for a soft fragrance made just for you? I am elated to introduce a perfume house with those like you in mind. Founder of Ajne, Jane Hendler, along with her husband longed to create plant-derived fragrances, skin and body care. To that end, they planted an organic farm and eventually opened the doors to their shop in Carmel, California. Today, Ajne has received acclaim from the likes of Good Morning America, Cosmopolitan magazine, and Bergdorf Goodman. In fact, I was delighted to hear from Ms. Hendler at the Fall Ball in October 2007. Bergdorf Goodman supports the individualized approach that Ajne employs and made the stellar decision to carry the line in late March 2007. One glance through Ajne's website and little doubt remains as to the dedication of the founders to quality fragrances with organic derivatives. Incidentally, never have I seen more gorgeous, unique, Bohemain packaging!

The first and only fragrance I have experienced from the line bucks every word I have uttered about lavender scents. Until now, the only one I could wear and tolerate was Andy Tauer's fantastic creation, Reverie Au Jardin. However, deLavande is so strikingly interesting with a deep backdrop of woods and spices, it begs me to wear it on days that I am moving a little too quickly and need to slow down. From the description on the website, I found this beautiful prose:

"The scent of the lavender harvest is captured in deLavande. Designed around a heart note of three distinct lavenders and set in a luscious base of smoky vanilla almond woods. deLavande contains the world’s purest lavender oils from Provence, Bulgaria and of course from our own spring fed organic farm in Carmel Valley. deLavande is as perfect for her as it is for him. If you feel drawn to Lavande, life is encouraging you to breathe deeply, speak your truth, slow down a bit and relax. "

Such a gorgeous idea amidst a beautiful scent! The high quality lavender headlines the fragrance with its rich, nurturing bouquet. Those smoky vanilla almond woods characterize the remainder of the scent and give it an earthy groundedness. As my friends Linda and Rob discovered at the Fall Ball, a heart note exists that resembles cinnamon, although I am certain it is simply the luscious lavender mixing with the precious smoky woods.

As I continuously sniff my wrist to write this review, I am cloaked in a warm, gold blanket of calm and centeredness. Indeed, essential oils offer spiritual qualities yet plant-derived ingredients do not sacrifice intrigue at all in this case. I do not smell like a headshop. I smell like the breeze that blows the fields of lavender as it blooms during the summertime in response to the warmth of the sun. I smell like the rich, sweet and fertile earth from which it grows. And I smell like tranquility.

Be sure to visit the website to gain an appreciation for the packaging, fragrances and philosophies of this outstanding company. (Special thanks to Linda for gifting me with a generous sample of this fragrance!)

Ajne deLavande is available on the website in .5 to 1 fl. oz. sizes ranging from $80-$130. It is also available at Bergdorf Goodman.

Image of ajne products courtesy of ajne.com; lavender courtesy of stressdynamics.com.

Winner of Poll Draw

2008-04-30T11:13:00.002-07:00

Thank you all for entering and for your thoughtful and inspiring poll answers. The winner of the random drawing is ....

Cirka!

Cirka, please e-mail me with your address to claim your prize!

Weekend Discovery

2008-04-28T06:50:00.005-07:00

Delightfully I was able to peruse some new shops that have sprung up in a quaint, boutique-y shopping area in Scottsdale over the weekend. The area is called the Waterfront. Inside a tiny little shop full of colorful furnishings and eclectic finds from places like Capri and Sicily, I found the entire Molinard 1849 collection. I was stunned and delighted because I have only seen these fragrances available (so far) at Aedes.com, which is a fantastic website. The ability to test the fragrances in person far exceeds any online shopping experience and I did each one. I have reviewed Un Air de Molinard and find that softly, greenly beautiful. But I discovered true love yesterday with Nirmala in the purple Lalique bottle! What a fruity, fresh, intriguing blend that reminds me of Thierry Mugler's Angel without the patchouli note, making it entirely wearable for me. Tragically, it appeared that the store stocked the fragrances simply because they matched the color scheme throughout the place. There were six customers at once expressing interest in the line, and unfortunately the sales clerk had very little to say about them and promptly left to look for her "fact sheet," losing the interest of all six people. It truly was a sad scene, and I wished I was able to help her become more well-versed but at the moment I recalled so little about the house, other than the fact that it originated in Grasse. This is one expensive bottle, however. At $185 a crack, it requires some saving - a worthwhile sacrifice for a beautiful fragrance. I plan to review once I get my hands on more, so please stay tuned!

A Poll for the Weekend!

2008-04-26T09:32:00.003-07:00

I never like to leave things on a bad note and considering my review of the previous fragrance, I thought I would lighten things up a bit with a bubbly poll! I will randomly draw a response to receive a large sample of my By Kilian fragrance, Liaisons Dangereuse, which has now made it to the West coast! (Lucky Scent and Apothia both stock them now.)

1. Of the fragrances you have tested in the last month, how many full bottles have you purchased?
2. If you received a sample from BodyNew, do you like it? If so, what do you like about it? (If you do not know what this is referring to, just reply n/a.)
3. What is your favorite aspect of this time of year?
4. What is your favorite flower that blooms this time of year?
5. If you were to characterize yourself by a fragrance category (spicy/woodsy/floral/chypre/green/fresh/gourmand), which one would it be and why?

My answers:
1. 0
2. I loved sharing!
3. Birdsongs most of the morning and baby quail
4. Honeysuckle
5. Floral simply because I adore floral fragrances and I enjoy being a woman

John Varvatos Eau de Parfum

2008-04-25T13:09:00.007-07:00

Meant to be tropical and remind wearers of the exotic flowers of a tropical isle, this new and first release for women from John Varvatos disappoints in every way. Firstly, the tropical appeal is lost on me. Instead, what I find is a very cloying, irritating, persistent bouquet that takes prisoners and never lets up. I would expect to find gardenia, tuberose and/or frangipani in a scent dedicated to the tropics. Sadly, none of those flowers bless the composition of this fragrance, for they would be a welcome, softening addition. This scent reminds me of so many that have gone before it, claiming a fantastic addition to floral fragrances available but offering nothing. Save your pennies and instead look for Annick Goutal Songes, Kai or even Fracas. The only redeeming quality about this fragrance is, of course, the bottle. (Remember, it is all about packaging these days. Consumers may be fooled by a great bottle.) Supposedly a grappa bottle served as inspiration for the shape and it is nice enough. However, I encourage you to focus on the juice and in this case, it is unremarkable.

Perfume Tip #5: Testing and Buying

2008-04-23T08:07:00.005-07:00

In discussing how to buy perfume with some of my close girlfriends, I have discovered that this idea is about as clear as mud with most American consumers, from a young woman looking for her first scent to an adoring husband searching for a gift for his wife. My first piece of advice is to never, ever buy within minutes of approaching the counter. Sales representatives would like you to think that you can make a decision quickly if you like something. But it is a shame to the art of perfume to do this - mostly because the true character of the scent does not shine until it has dried down and that can take anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour. The best thing to do is ask for a spritz on your skin or on a card and walk away to let the scent develop. If you still like it within the course of three to four hours, a purchase is more justifiable.

That leads me to another point, test on your skin as often as possible. Actually, test as many as possible! Testing and sampling is extremely important. It is a rare occasion that I have been shopping for perfume and liked the first one I tried. Sometimes it takes days or multiple shopping trips for me to find a scent I truly love. Again, you will receive some resistance from sales representatives in doing this but it truly is the right thing to do. Stores I have found friendly to testing include Barney's New York, Bergdorf Goodman, CosBar Scottsdale, Essentials and More Scottsdale, Fred Segal Apothia, Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Sephora, Saks Fifth Avenue and Takashimaya New York. (If I have missed any, forgive me. These are the stores that stand out to my knowlege!) I am certain there are a smattering of knowledgeable sales staff at other stores, but for the most part my perfume testing and shopping experiences at stores like Macy's or Dillard's has been marginal at best. Additionally, the latter rarely have truly remarkable fragrances available in their offerings. What they do have are an abundance of fragrances driven by marketing that lack depth and beauty. (There are exceptions, but for the most part I never shop there.) Perhaps the best places to shop are tiny boutiques like Scent Bar in Los Angeles (for online purchase information please read my perfume tip on online fragrance shopping here.) Oh how I wish there were a place like Scent Bar where I live. I have often thought of opening a store in my town like it to satisfy my cravings for truly fantastic fragrances. But I digress ...

Overall, the more you test, the more you discover what you truly like. Research the fragrances you like online before or after testing and find commonalities between the scents. Are there certain notes you are drawn to? Certain houses? Basenotes.net offers a wonderful search option allowing you to type in notes to find fragrances containing them, giving you many options to test. Read reviews on the fragrance blogs I recommend. Additionally, never, ever succumb to the idea from a fragrance model that a certain fragrance "fits you" and buy the fragrance on the spot. Figure it out for yourself, test it for a few hours, keep sampling others and you cannot go wrong.

In purchasing a scent, remember that a full bottle of fragrance is a lot of fragrance. It is much easier to swallow that fact when you have found love. I am a huge fan of buying decants online, because I rarely use up a whole bottle of fragrance. (I rarely wear the same fragrance every day.) The beauty in this is getting a smaller amount of a scent you have recently discovered you like. If you empty the decant and still like it, a full bottle purchase is certainly justified. There are several places to buy decants and my favorite is Theperfumedcourt.com. I know most of the ladies involved in this site. They are second to none in customer service and maintaining a collection of the most gorgeous fragrances on the planet.

I will leave you with a final thought. The fragrance industry is largely driven by marketing these days. The bulk of the cost of perfume is in the packaging, so sales associates make it a point to carry around the bottles and tempt you to purchase quickly. I encourage you to pay more attention to what is inside the bottle. A heavily marketed fragrance is more likely to be crap. A more quiet, obscure and difficult to find fragrance is more likely to be worth investigating, in my experience. Do some research, test and test again and pay attention to how you feel when you wear the scent. If you are able to check all of these boxes with positive thought, only then is pulling out your wallet in order.

Forget Me Not: Seringa by Floris of London

2008-04-21T09:17:00.008-07:00

I love perfume houses with a great story. And the story behind Floris is precisely why I chose one of its fragrances for “Forget Me Not” this month. It has not been an exceptionally long time since Seringa was released (1992), however since it is the only sample I have other than the more recently released China Rose, it will suffice for April. Add to that fact the scent could make an addition to a springtime work fragrance wardrobe, and we are in business.

I have been hoping to review a Floris of London fragrance for quite some time but I have been limited by the two previously mentioned samples I received in New York City last fall. How I wish there was a Floris counter in my hometown! I would thoroughly enjoy the quest to find “my scent” and fill my bathroom with its accompanying toiletries that are so plentifully available.

So let us move on with the story, shall we? Floris of London was founded during the year 1730. It was a year of abundant arts, culture and tragedy. The Life and Death of Tom Thumb the Great by Henry Fielding was playing at Drury Lane Theater, the oldest English theater still in use; an actor and playwright named Colley Cibber was named poet laureate of Britian due to his works centering on political intrigue; and the Russian czar died of smallpox on his wedding day at the tender age of 14. Additionally an opportunistic man arrived in England to seek his fortune from his native Menorca (the second largest of the Balearic islands of Spain). His name was Juan Famenias Floris. He began a business by setting up shop in the elegant St. James quarter of London, where he worked as a comb-maker and barber. However, eventually he missed the aromas of his native land and began experimenting with oils, essences and fixatives. Thus, Floris of London was born! Floris is run to this day by eighth generation descendants of Mr. Floris and the house focuses on “superior products where craftsmanship and quality is paramount,” according to their website.

Seringa, a fruity floral, theoretically centers around the “mock orange blossom” or seringa flower. In fact, I have not been able to find anything on the actual scent of the seringa flower but rather the seringa tree that yields rubber. Not to worry, however, since the remainder of identifiable notes give this scent its character: notes such as violet leaf, lily and oakmoss. This initially crisp, leafy green, not in the least bit sweet floral begins quite sharp – so much that I encourage you to avoid sniffing for at least a full three minutes. It is in my inability to identify one particular note (in the words of Luca Turin) that makes this scent’s composition exceptionally good. Seringa is shower-fresh that lasts all day. It is a quiet scent when applied lightly and it leaves a woman smelling nice but not perfume-y, subtle and humble, crisp and clean. Interestingly, several of the representatives at Floris claim that it was a favorite of Princess Diana. That fact perhaps inspires many purchases of the fragrance, but is it really full-bottle worthy? If you enjoy smelling faintly like floral soap, faintly like a spa, and faintly like greenery added to floral bouquets, this scent is for you. I would gladly purchase the body cream to wear on days that I need a quiet fragrance. But I will not be adding a full bottle to my collection anytime soon due to my boredom* with the fragrance. There is positively nothing about it that causes me to swoon, much like the uniform I wore in parochial school. It is just there. It serves its purpose and sometimes looks nice, but I would not choose to wear it to impress. The history of the house has me intrigued, though. I would like to find one from the collection that works for me. Any suggestions? Please be sure to visit Divina's review of Nina by Nina Ricci at Fragrance Bouquet.

*When Divina and I came up with the concept “Forget Me Not”, we agreed that there may be scents that fall into this category that we do not like. It is not that I do not like this one, however. I am simply unmoved.

Floris Seringa is available at florislondon.com and various online perfume discounters. You might also find a good deal on it at Marshall's or TJ Maxx.

Image of bottle courtesy of florisoflondon.com; violet leaf courtesy of hiltonpond.com

Boston's NPR hosts "Perfume Appreciation"

2008-04-21T07:17:00.004-07:00

Today at 11 a.m. EST, WBUR will be hosting Luca Turin (biophysicist and perfume critic), Patty Geissler (editor and writer for the informative and entertaining Perfume Posse) and Tania Sanchez (a writer and perfume critic) for a feature entitled "Perfume Appreciation" by guest host Jane Clayson. I know I am looking forward to hearing the discussion with Patty's views added to the mix. Read more here. No matter where you are in the world, you can listen live from your computer. Those who do listen, let us discuss! Leave your comments here on what you thought of the piece.

Update: Thanks to the lovely Iris from L.A., I now have a video clip that encapsulates several of the points made during the WBUR interview and offers a peek at Tania Sanchez and Luca Turin. Although a little grainy as Iris admits, it's still great! Watch it here.

Montale Aoud Roses Petals

2008-04-18T10:36:00.006-07:00

Delightfully, my first experience with Montale Aoud fragrances just happens to be one that is softened by quintessential rose. I am not certain why I am so late on this bandwagon. It seems to be a condition of my life. I tend not to follow the herd but rather stay in the field chasing butterflies until what the herd is drawn to strikes my fancy at a much later date. By then, the others have reached a crescendo, consequently lost interest and see me as terribly behind. I am willing to risk that "behind" label in favor of authentic interest. So here I am ... authentically interested in the Aouds.

I am quite pleasantly surprised by this first fragrance. What I expected to be medicinal, harsh and slightly in need of scrubbing is in fact pleasant, intriguing, and unique. Thank goodness for my aoud virgin nose, the aoud is shrouded in this scent, shrouded in gauze curtains scented with roses. Yet this is no blushing, dewy, pink rose. It is a confident, slightly dirty red rose absolute strengthened by geranium, giving it a liquor-y, opaque feel. It has a rich, earthy quality, as if the petals are surrounded by damp pebbles over fertile soil and the soil gives the flower strength to endure. The fragrance does not change much from start to finish, as if the confident rose possesses stamina.

The wearer of this fragrance should possess total confidence and charisma and if she is a woman red lipstick is required. There is a certain subtle sex appeal about the scent due to its redolent, raw, boozy and earthy nature. It is not quite me, although I can imagine wearing it to an elaborate affair requiring a cocktail dress and fishnet stockings. Considering events such as these are rare in my life today, I probably will not apply Montale Aoud Roses Petals often. But if I were a fancy socialite living in New York City? You bet!

Montale Aoud Roses Petals is available at luckyscent.com. A 50mL spray retails for $150.

Image of rose courtesy of mir.com; woman courtesy of panterka.kiev.ua

Jo Malone Kohdo Wood Collection

2008-04-17T09:57:00.014-07:00

Thank you to the lovely and kind Iris at Saks Fifth Avenue at Biltmore Shopping Center, I was able to test and sample the fragrances of this collection long before their release. The two fragrances will be released as limited editions in May and they are based upon the centuries-old, very refined art of Kōdō, the Japanese incense ceremony. The first of the two is Lotus Blossom & Water Lily, meant for day wear and "designed to energize the body." The second is Dark Amber & Ginger Lily, to set a sensual, mellow mood for night.

Lotus Blossom & Water Lily contains a well-rounded combination of notes, including grapefruit, mandarin, freesia, honeysuckle, incense, amber and guaiac wood, among others including the title notes. I have discovered that any fragrance containing either mandarin or guaiac wood is likely to inspire a double take on my part ... or make that double sniff. But this luscious, uplifting, and most certainly "energizing" fragrance has struck my fancy so much that I have nearly used up my samples. (I typically sample a fragrance a few times for a review and then either give the vial away or stash it for future use. Not with this one.) The Kōdō ceremonies are hallmarked as being extremely refined, precise and requiring 30 years of study to perfect. Lotus Blossom & Water Lily possesses a similar refined quality, as if the perfumer desired to perfect each aspect of the scent. It melds adjectives such as "fresh," "sweet" and "spicy" into one and when I wear it people ask, "What is that? It smells so good!" A fresh, energizing beginning leads to the sumptuous yet light floral heart, all the while faintly underscored by a spicy, resinous, and reverberating base - squeaky clean with a dirty twist. I adore the fact that most of its bouquet is a soft floral, not in the least bit cloying and fresh as a cool breeze. In fact, I have found that Jo Malone is able to create fragrances in the "fresh" category unlike no other house and I love them for it. Here in the desert the quality is elusive.

As an interesting side note, I was drawn to investigate the significance of lotus blossom. In researching Tantra, an ancient tradition in which the lotus blossom is revered, I found this on a Tantra website:

In tantric art the lotus is a symbol of the expanding consciousness, which ultimately raises the aspirant from the dark depths of ignorance to the radiant heights of inner awakening. Because of its smooth and oily surface the lotus is not affected by the water in which it grows. Hence just as the lotus plant grows in the 'darkness of mud' and gradually blossoms out to the surface of water, unsullied by the mud and water which nourishes it, so the inner-self transcends beyond its own material limits, uncorrupted and untarnished by illusion and ignorance.

If you have ever attended a yoga class, you have undoubtedly experienced references to tantra, the chakras, mandalas and the like. With this idea in mind, I move to the next fragrance.

Dark Amber & Ginger Lily amps up the sex appeal considerably, with an ambery although mostly woodsy composition delicately sweetened with ginger and lily. Dark Amber & Ginger Lily contains water lily (as in the previous) with the provocative addition of night blooming jasmine, leather, pink pepper, amber, incense and sandalwood. In the Kōdō tradition, participants "listen" to the incense by properly holding and sniffing it through a Kōdō cup. In "listening" to this fragrance I hear deep, resonating Tantric chants, not the watered down Western idea of Tantra (typically referring to sex), but the ancient conscious-expanding form of the tradition. The chant focuses on the Sacral Chakra, the source of life and creativity. It is deep and resinous, at times honey sweet and always calming and profound. Enlightenment feels within reach with this audible, delectable scent.

Best of all, these profound and meaningful fragrances can easily be layered, as all of the scents of Jo Malone, to create a scent all your own. I may just have to temporarily relieve myself of my savings plan to invest in these two impeccable scents while they are available.

The Jo Malone Kohdo Wood Collection will be availabe in 30mL and 100mL cologne and matching bath oils and candles at your local Jo Malone counter in May.

Images: Genji-Plum courtesy of japanese-incense; lotus blossom courtesy of hongkongdailyphoto; "Enlightenment" courtesy of eso-garden

Slight Delay

2008-04-16T18:44:00.002-07:00

Dear Readers,

I have undergone some medical treatment this week that required me to relax and rest. Therefore, my Wednesday post will be up tomorrow, Thursday. On Friday I will be back on my regular schedule. Thank you for your patience!

Antica Farmacista Fico Verde Home

2008-04-14T06:41:00.007-07:00

I present another wonderful entry by the lovely Camille:

There are certain scents that conjure up images of home when I was growing up: the traditional Easter yeast bread rising and then baking in the oven, fresh sheets pulled from the line still smelling of sunshine, the smoky warmth of logs burning in a fireplace on a cold fall night in Buffalo. I love those scent memories. The problem is that I don’t bake much (outside of that Easter bread I faithfully make once every year!), I don’t dry clothes on a line, and fireplaces get minimal use in Arizona. But I still want those scents greeting me when I enter the kitchen or lingering in the halls as I’m walking to another room. So I admit that I take the shortcuts of our facsimile age. Enter candles, oil warmers, and other “home fragrance” scents and gadgets that I obsess about nearly as much as I do personal fragrances.

My latest obsession is not extremely new, but it’s new and fabulous to me, so I thought I’d share for any of you out there who might have missed it. I am currently in love with Antica Farmacista’s Fico Verde Home Ambiance fragrance, enough so that I’ve purchased a large “refill” size of the stuff so that I can have it wafting around the house all through this Spring and Summer. I’m smitten with it for several reasons:

The scent is Philosykos for the home, and as I noted in my first post on this blog, Philosykos is one of my all time desert-island faves. Fico Verde (Green Fig) is a grassy, figgy, sweet-bitter green scent; the Antica Farmacista website (http://www.anticafarmacista.com/) describes the notes thus: “This scent begins with fresh green notes of cut grass, luscious notes of fruit and soft violet, then softly envelopes you in the sweetness of wild fig. A finishing drydown of powdery sandalwood round [sic] out this harmonious scent.” Green Fig conjures up for me the scent memory of relaxing with a glass of homemade lemonade near a fresh cut lawn on a summer day. It’s perfect for this time of year when the temps are rising, the windows are open, and I want the house to smell (if not actually be?!) fresh and clean.

The fragrance is offered in one of those “sticks in a glass bottle” forms that are ubiquitous at the moment, and I have to admit I like the concept—it’s scent distribution that requires no flame or electricity and has the added bonus of looking pretty. Antica Farmacista’s bottles and labels are classic apothecary styles that would fit in most décor schemes, and Fico Verde is a pleasing light green liquid that blends with seasonal decorations and arrangements. Since I purchased the large version of the scent, I’m buying a few extra small pretty glass bottles and splitting up the included looooong birch sticks so that I can spread my scented joy around more of the house.

And the clincher for me: the “throw.” Fico Verde is not overpowering, but it’s not a shy scent, either. I’ve tried a variety of the diffusers, from cheap to expensive, with mixed results. Fico Verde nicely scents up a room and the adjoining hallway in my home, and I don’t find I have to turn the sticks more than once per week to keep the scent strength consistent.

I’m a little afraid that this ended up more like an ad than a review—sorry about that!! Perhaps readers can help me out by sharing: What scents conjure up “home” for you? Any favorite ways of fragracing your home that you would like to share?

Image of Antica Farmacista Home Fragrances courtesy of beautybentobox.com. Green figs courtesy of jupiterimages.com.

2008 Fifi Awards

2008-04-11T08:05:00.003-07:00

It is that time of the year again - time for the annual Fifi Awards and Celebration hosted by the Fragrance Foundation. The Foundation was established in 1949 by six industry leaders to develop educational programs on the importance of fragrance to the American public. Today, America is the largest fragrance market in the world and the Fifi Awards are designed to highlight some of the best created. The first major announcement occured today: Vera Wang has been given the prestigious Hall of Fame Award.

Because all of you, dear readers, are well versed on fragrance, what better audience to provide feedback to the organizers? The following links will allow you to browse the finalists, debate the top ten, view celebrity pics and clips. You can even vote for your favorite fragrance of the year. Do not miss this opportunity to express your opinions. I myself am delighted to see the category "Nouveau Niche" as the bulk of my blog focuses on this genre of fragrance. Enjoy!

http://www.facebook.com/pages/FiFi-Awards/13957130842
http://www.iqons.com/FiFi+Awards
http://www.myspace.com/fifiawards
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ud-1f-Rc5dE

Image source courtesy of facebook.com

Spring 2008 Top 5

2008-04-09T06:00:00.001-07:00

It is that time again - time to come up with our list of Top Five fragrances for the season. Spring holds the honor of being my favorite season to wear fragrance because of my love of soft and romantic florals that are so fitting. Each year I look forward to investigating the offerings perfumers launch beginning in February to appeal to the season of rebirth and growth.

Unfortunately this season I have been somewhat disappointed with new offerings. As excited as I was to try Gucci by Gucci, what I discovered was a near exact imitation of Narciso Rodriguez for Her. John Varvados for Her promised an elegant fragrance in a sensual bottle but left me longing for something more … or something just … more notable (pardon the pun). The new Chloé, the first fragrance launch from the designer since 1975, beckoned me to the counter with its beautiful bottle. Although pleasant, the juice did not move me. Yves Saint Laurent Elle, although appealing with its bright pink bottle, proved no different than other fruity scents with a patchouli base. Unfortunate for certain that most widely available commercial scents are so disappointing to my nose. I am forever on the quest to wear truly remarkable fragrances and hope to always provide you with equally remarkable suggestions. Alas, I am left to reference fragrances from previous years mostly, with one exception. Of all the Spring launches, I find Laura Mercier’s offerings to be stellar. Without further ado, here is my Top 5 list of fragrances I am wearing quite often this season.

5. Laura Mercier Neroli

I have yet to find an orange blossom fragrance I can call my own, that lasts more than a few hours or that does not vaguely resemble the smell of urine once it dries on my skin. Ladies and gents, I have found it! Although it is based on Mediterranean orange blossom, Neroli smells extremely similar to the orange blossoms blooming in my backyard and around my neighborhood. The amber, musk and sandalwood at the base give it resonance and lasting power lacking in other fragrances dedicated to the flower. When I wear this fragrance, I feel an incredible symmetry with the world around me. Orange blossom is one of my favorite natural scents and I am thrilled that at this price point I can enjoy it often. I love to layer Neroli with MMU Cosmetics “Orange Blossom” shower gel and body lotion.

4. Chanel No. 18

That’s right. 18. Not 19. The decant I purchased of this sparkling jewel of a fragrance shortly after it was launched is coming in quite handy these days. No. 18 is from Les Exclusifs collection and it never ceases to uplift and energize with its unique ambrette bouquet. It reminds me of luminous jewels, the color yellow, giggles and babydoll sleeves. Perfect for Spring.

3. Serge Lutens Un Lys

Buttery, creamy, gorgeous lily goodness. Soliflores do not get much better than this. With less than 2mL left in my decant vial, I am savoring every last drop.

2. L’Artisan Parfumeur Iris Pallida

Appropriate for weddings, springtime and days that I want to make my surroundings more interesting by walking on a woodsy, purple cloud, this gorgeous 2007 release from L’Artisan delivers without the metallic quality of other iris fragrances.

Finally, my number one fragrance this spring is ...

1. Thierry Mugler Angel Le Lys

The signature fragrance of my courtship with my husband never gets old. Lilies drizzled with honey and chocolate add decadence to any social affair. I have officially "rediscovered" its beauty this season.

Be sure to visit Divina's picks at Fragrance Bouquet!

Image sources: lacremebeauty.com and ivis-bg.com

Perfume for the Occasion: Weddings Part I, For the Guests

2008-04-07T06:00:00.003-07:00

Spring is upon us and love is in the air. This time of year seems to usually bring with it a plethora of weddings to attend, so what better topic for Perfume for the Occasion than this? I have certainly been found, with five minutes to spare, franticly searching through my perfume collection to find an appropriate scent. The dilemma: respectfully presenting your best self by smelling and looking good without leaving a horrid waft of scent that not only upstages the bride and groom but makes for a very uncomfortable ceremony for those around you. Therefore, who better to turn to for advice on the matter than your personal Perfume for the Occasion advisors, Divina of Fragrance Bouquet and myself of course! We will break this down into two parts – one for April and the other for May.

In searching for fragrances appropriate for guests, I found that many perfumes I desired to put on this list are also fabulous spring scents. Since most weddings are held in spring or summer, the below fragrances are perfect for those. For a winter wedding, the choices would be drastically different but the idea would be the same: smell good without overwhelming others. Anything you choose should be light, close to the skin, entirely romantic and uplifting and not too sexy.

Outdoor Wedding

My favorite type of wedding is usually chosen by couples longing for something fun and different. Typically, although not always, these affairs tend to be somewhat casual. Therefore, your scent should match the breezy feel of the event and its scenic surroundings. I reserve rose fragrances for the bride, but these lovely florals will suit any guest very well.

Annick Goutal Le Chevrefeuille – Green, simple, light and sweet, citrus-y honeysuckle blended with the most delicate jasmine. What lends this fragrance its outstanding quality is a freshness that never overwhelms others.

L’Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse Aux Paupillons – To match the flowers that surround guests at a wedding, a pretty and cheerful bouquet of a fragrance that spells romance. Be careful to spray sparingly with this one. Everything about its beautiful aroma makes it perfect for an outdoor garden wedding!

Jo Malone Lotus Blossom & Water Lily – A gorgeous, soft yet stunning fragrance, available at counters in May, that I would happily wear to any wedding this spring or summer due to its soft, slightly sweet and altogether classy bouquet. The complimentary Dark Amber & Ginger Lily layered over it easily transitions the scent to an evening reception.

Versace Man Eau Fraiche - Despite its simple packaging, the juice gives a man a clean, fresh scent without too much sillage to overwhelm others.

Indoor, Formal Wedding

For a more traditional affair, your fragrance choice is paramount. In these cases, the ceremony is usually in a church and if that church is very devout it certainly is not a good strategy to wear a bombshell fragrance. If you are on the prowl, please carry your come-hither scent to apply after the ceremony!

Instead of worrying about application in between events, my choices will take you from ceremony to reception with class and finesse.

Chanel No. 5 – Considering most young brides will not choose this scent, you should be safe with the queen of perfumes. Staying close to the skin glorifies her loveliness and makes her perfect for formal, romantic affairs.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Iris Pallida – This soft, woodsy ode to “the keeper of the rainbow” gives me instant class anytime I wear it (that is if I act accordingly), making it perfect for a formal wedding. I would suggest refraining from dancing the “Chicken” or the “Hokey Pokey” when wearing this beautiful fragrance. It calls for grace and style.

Frederic Malle En Passant – What more perfect flower to wear to a wedding than one that connotes first love: the lilac. En Passant epitomizes a quiet and fragile lilac in its soft aroma that surrounds the wearer like soft veil.

Hermes Un Jardin Sur Le Nil – A perfect uplifting, green and fresh scent for those averse to flowers. (I realize most of my choices are florals because I equate them with romance!)

Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory – Again for those averse to flowers, a quiet, intriguing woodsy-incense fragrance that I would be delighted to smell on my husband at a wedding.

Whatever you choose, enjoy yourself and remember not to over spray! In fact, you could wear just about anything if you apply lightly. But if you give as much thought to your fragrance as to your wardrobe like us, the above choices will not lead you astray. What have you successfully worn to a wedding?

Images courtesy of argosycruises.com, christopherplace.com and calgarybanffweddingminister.com

Fragrance Notes: Mimosa

2008-04-02T08:14:00.006-07:00

Inspired by my previous post and Ms. Sanchez's description of Guerlain Champs-Elysées, I decided to further investigate the fragrance and others like it. Turns out, the note responsible for the "lucite-heeled shoes and a ditzy high-pitched laugh" description is the delicate mimosa flower. Other fragrances containing it as a note include L'Artisan Parfumeur Mimosa pour Moi, Givenchy's Amarige 2005 Harvest collection and even the venerable classic that I love, Chanel No. 5. The flower imparts a green sweetness, a lightness of being, a sunshine-y, bubbly quality that Ms. Sanchez so perfectly described in relation to the type of woman who wears it. Its yellow goodness reminds me of the first delicate buds of spring. Because I do not live in Provence (how I wish!) and I am not exposed to mimosas on a daily basis, I began some research on this interesting flower.

I found a fabulous article in Cosmetics Business online that contains the history of the flower's use in perfumery as well as other interesting facts about mimosa:

"The first plantations of Mimosa trees for the perfumery industry were established in 1865. Perfumers were quick to recognise and appreciate mimosa's suave and delicate fragrance. Its abundance in the hills of Provence also made it a good choice for the development of perfumes. The hills of the Tanneron region above Cannes are delicately scented with the sweet, heady, almondy fragrance preceding the winter mimosa harvest. In February, the Massif de Tanneron takes on the appearance of a range of golden mountains as the largest mimosa forest in Europe comes into bloom."

Due to its sweet, powdery scent, mimosa is often combined well with orange blossom. The trees bloom only once per year and the flower is extremely fragile and difficult to maintain after cutting. Therefore, it is associated with sensitivity. (Of interest, mimosas are also used in cooking to add sweetness to springtime desserts.) Certainly this delicate flower has an important place in the art of perfumery and many fragrances have chosen its delicate bouquet to either support or showcase the composition. While I would not welcome an association with the word "ditzy", I certainly enjoy fragrances containing mimosa during this exhilarating and awakening time of year.

See previous post for source of quote by Tania Sanchez. Read more about mimosas at Cosmetics Business.

Image source http://cr.middlebury.edu

Tania Sanchez and Luca Turin

2008-03-31T08:56:00.003-07:00

A fantastic excerpt from the book Perfumes: The Guide, by two fragrance experts Tania Sanchez and Luca Turin, appears in the April 2008 edition of Allure magazine (the one with Mariah Carey on the front). If this excerpt is any indication of the quality of the book, I am headed out to use my 40% off coupon at Border's today! A spot-on description of Guerlain Champs-Elysées, a description of classics, a listing of five-star scents and an insightful guide to selecting a fragrance are all included in this crafty little article, starting on page 136. Check it out! The first person to read and respond to this post with the name of the first featured "classic" fragrance in the article will get a nice-sized decant of it from me!

Neil Morris Spectral Violet

2008-03-26T06:00:00.001-07:00

There are very few people in this world who make a lasting impression on me after a brief meeting. Those that fall into this category are so wonderfully in the moment, incredibly thoughtful or hilariously funny, so full of life that when the image of their face comes to mind I instantly smile. It is as if they mysteriously hold the secret to life and each day is simply an opportunity to express it. Therefore, their encounters with others are always kind, always patient, alway thoughtful and usually fun. One of those people is the unforgettable Neil Morris.

I will never forget how Neil, upon discovering that I am a floral girl after meeting me, retrieved a fragrance he has been developing with the sole aim of testing it on my skin for my delight. After dabbing a little on my ivory skin, he exclaimed"That is exactly how that scent is supposed to smell!" Then a few moments later, "Yes! That fragrance blooms on you!" This brief exchange encapsulates my impression of Neil. It also demonstrates Neil's genuine passion for scent.

I have been longing to review one of his scents ever since. I regret that it took me so long! I chose Spectral Violet because of several of Neil's fragrances I tested, it is the most me. Do not get me wrong. They are all incredible, unique and superlative! Divina of Fragrance Bouquet has recently written wonderful reviews on all of them. Spectral Violet stands out firstly to me because of its name. I picture violets as a silk-screen Andy Warhol piece. That idea epitomizes the fragrance: the beautiful shape and general structure of violets with dynamic, multi-dimensional and colorful embellishments that originate and define the piece. From the purple-red top, to the soft, deep blue and green heart, to the yellow-powder finish, Spectral Violet illustrates beauty and grace. Secondly of the five scents I tested, this scent by far lasted the longest on my skin. Maybe Neil's sentiments are right about this one as well, it "blooms" on me.

I would not call myself a lover of violet fragrances but I do own Norma Kamali Violette, Serge Lutens Bois de Violette and Laura Mercier Violette. Spectral Violet possesses that candied aspect of the flower that the others do. Yet rather than a one-dimensional study of the flower or with a few notes added, what makes Spectral Violet stand way apart from the others is its smooth as silk qualities. No sharp edges exist here. Rather the colorful notes blend into one another like a rainbow - soft, dreamy and stunning - making it truly a masterpiece.

Spectral Violet along with others in the Vault Fragrances collection will be available online at www.neilmorrisfragrances.com in April (just a few short weeks away!) The Parfums will retail for $150 for 2 oz. and $4 for shipping.

Image courtesy of www.mssl.ucl.ac.uk

Thierry Mugler Mirror Mirror Series, Part II

2008-03-24T06:00:00.001-07:00

Continuing our look at the Mirror Mirror series from Thierry Mugler available at Saks Fifth Avenue, today features the last three of the collection.

Dis-Moi, Miroir or Mirror Image by perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin:

Described as a "a lavish, nurturing floral fragrance melding Lily, Orange Blossom, and nurturing milky notes for extreme sophistication," Mirror Image stays close to the skin but offers a soft, sweet gourmand bouquet. Orange blossom and lily certainly stand out during the beginning stages, with those milky and "nurturing" notes underscoring the beautiful, sweet Spring blooms. It is this honeyed and happy stage of the fragrance that compels me to recommend it for Easter and/or springtime. The heart becomes a bouquet akin to fruity marshmallows, much like the sweet gourmand scents catered to the younger crowd. The marshmallow accord prompted my husband to say, "It reminds me of high school." An expert on fragrance, he is not. However he poses an accurate idea in that this fragrance can be considered quite young - not really sophisticated as the marketing description suggests. For fans of By Kilian Love or the difficult to obtain L'Artisan Framboise Tralala you will find something likeable here. Thankfully, the milky notes never turn sour as they provide a creamy anchor to the cheerful, candied flowers, much like a dash of cream adds richness to a cup of floral tea. It struck me as I began to write this review that the name might hold some significance in its description. For the other scents in this collection, I simply saw it as an unrelated embellishment. However in this case, the name does match the close to the skin quality of the youthful, candied yet slightly creamy Mirror Image. And for those of us who feel younger than the image in the mirror holds, this scent provides a refreshing reminder of our youth.

Miroir des Secrets or Mirror of Secrets by perfumer Domitille Bertier:

From the maker of Diptyque Tam Dao comes a scent unlike anything I have ever experienced. If you could see me right now, my nose would be wrinkled like a pug's. This is not my cup of tea at all, however forever munificent when it comes to perfume, I am able to find some redeeming qualities about it. The top consists of fizzy aldehyde, clarifying and uplifting in its happy nature. From what I understand, this is a naturally occuring aldehyde. Boy would I love to know more about the creation of this scent! Bittersweetness is the aspect of Secrets that has my nose bent out of shape. Once the patchouli and musk make themselves known after a few minutes of drying time, the fragrance takes on a peculiarly sour and bittersweet nature on my skin. I reserve bittersweet qualities for dark chocolate and certain spices I use in food. I rarely long to smell bittersweet. However, fans of patchouli and musk with a twist may find this fragrance worth a try.

A Travers Le Miroir or Through the Looking Glass by perfumer Alexis Dadier:

By far my favorite in the collection, this one took me by complete surprise. When I read the description as follows, "The opulent and utterly feminine tuberose, lavish and decadent, flirts with a warm, very masculine, woody accord and aromatic accents of absinthe. Subtle notes of wintergreen make the tuberose flower smells almost metallic," I expected something similar to Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle. What I experienced was a metamorphosis of scent, from the earthy, slightly woodsy and seductive introduction, to the metallic and cold heart of tuberose, to the warm, ambery and soft finish. A spicy element also exists in the composition, reminding me of cumin softened by flowers, probably attributable to medicinal absinthe. On the whole it is quite lovely and beautiful, wonderfully unique and truly sophisticated. This scent longs to be worn by a femme fatale who is confident enough in herself to wear a fragrance so remarkably different from most.

After fully experiencing the entire collection, I applaud the house of Thierry Mugler for creating unique scents worth studying. Because of the price point I will not be purchasing a full bottle. However, I would love a decant of A Travers Le Miroir for special occasions!

(See previous post for purchasing information.)

Image of Truth's Mirror painting courtesy of http://dunedin.art.museum/

Happy Easter

2008-03-23T09:37:00.002-07:00

From our house to yours, wishing you a Happy Easter and the freedom to live your life to the fullest believing in the impossible ...

... and smelling good!

Thierry Mugler Mirror Mirror Series, Part I

2008-03-21T06:00:00.001-07:00

Over my next two entries, I will be exploring the Mirror Mirror collection from Thierry Mugler which was released just a few short months ago and should be more widely available by now. In no particular order, today I will focus on two scents in the collection. Stay tuned for another entry where I will discuss the last three. The idea behind this collection is to highlight the art of perfumery, since the President of Thierry Mugler fragrances, Mr. Joel Palix, encouraged his noses to "create something original and unusual".

Miroir des Envies or Mirror of Desires by perfumer Christine Nagel:

From the creator of the blockbuster Narciso Rodriguez For Her and my own love Thierry Mugler Angel Lily comes a very unconventional floral. A strikingly apt description is written by Saks Fifth Avenue - "Provocative notes of warm, morning toast and sun-drenched skin become tasty partners with a sumptuous jasmine center. A unique overdose of usually minor accords." My first impression of the fragrance was unfortunately a deadringer for nailpolish. Perhaps the delicate nature of the notes combined with the fixative alcohol caused them to get lost in the shuffle. That unpleasant top accord faded quickly (thank goodness) leading to the simultaneously sweet and cozy heart. Who thought that morning toast could create a pleasant fragrance experience when blended with jasmine? Kudos to Christine for taking a risk and developing a scent that reminds me of all things innocent, soft and light - an infant's fingers, delicate flower petals warmed by the sun, the backs of my cat's ears, a gentle butterfly. Miroir des Envies offers a soft and ethereal skin scent that is undoubtedly unique and original. For those who like fragrances that boldly make a statement or offer significant sillage, this scent is not ideal. Rather it is feather-light and I predict some perfumistas may not even detect it on their skin. Therefore, this delicate, breezy fragrance could be a great choice for a woman who is pregnant and averse to strong odors, a congested office environment or a casual and relaxing (think walks in the park, soft music or curling up with a good book) weekend.

Miroir des Vanités or Mirror of Vanities by perfumer Alexis Dadier:

This fragrance is again soft but in an entirely different fashion than the previous. No florals exist in this composition. Rather, this one is described as an "effervescent woody" scent where "bubbly citrus accords enliven and mingle with the warm, subtle bitterness of cinchona bark and vetiver, heightened by the black intensity of licorice". Despite the description, nothing about this scent is intense to my nose. Instead, I smell a progression from bergamot to vetiver, with a gentle undercurrent of something darker, perhaps the bark. "Effervescent" is an accurate description for the top, since the combination of citrus and vetiver create a bubbly, happy accord. As the scent develops further it remains lighthearted and docile and ends on a powdery note. It never deepens enough to be considered sexy or profound. Nonetheless, Miroir des Vanités is truly unique and reminds me of literally no other fragrance I have tried. Like Miroir des Envies, I find it somewhat casual due to its lack of sincere depth but nice enough for a relaxed and aloof vibe.

I am not crazy about the packaging of the two scents. It looks much harsher than the soft and delicate juice within. The price point is a bit steep in my opinion, but if you fall in love, it may be worth it. So far, I will not be purchasing a full bottle. We shall see what the last three hold in store!

The Thierry Mugler Mirror Mirror collection is available at Saks Fifth Avenue. They are listed under "Women's Fragrances" on the website and retail for $150 for a 1.7 EDP.

Image of Miroir des Envies courtesy of Saks Fifth Avenue.

Parfums D'Orsay Femme de Dandy

2008-03-19T09:06:00.005-07:00

Perhaps one of the most interesting aspects of this fragrance is the history of the Parisian house from which it hails. It begins with Count Alfred D'orsay who created a name for himself due to his "witty remarks" and "outlandish clothing". Such a man was considered a "Dandy" and he brought a breath of fresh air to an otherwise boring 19th Century society. The Chevalier's writing, painting, sculpting and ultimate perfume composing talents became famous among his contemporaries and date back to the years 1801-1852.

His beloved mistress Lady Blessington had a difficult time wearing the musky fragrances that were popular back then. To please her, he dedicated his time to creating a scent she could wear. Quite romantic, eh? That project began his love of scent creation, and each of his homes thereafter contained a perfume-making room. Parfums D'Orsay was thus created after his death in dedication to his unforgettable character and creativity. Although the history books vary with the date of the house's creation, according to Robin at Now Smell This, 1908 seems to be correct.

Moving to present day, the house was "revived" in 1995 and Femme de Dandy was subsequently produced in 2001. The fragrance is a sleeper at worst (have you heard of it until now?) and a glorious fruity-floriental at best. In the very little literature that is available regarding this fragrance I have surmised that its creator is Francis Kurkdjian. The notes include spicy cardamom, anise blossom, carrot, cinnamon and cloves combined with tobacco, rum, benzoin, labdanum and tonka bean. The notes as listed would appear to slap you in the face a bit, and the fragrance does come across, at least initially, as a bit strong. However, as it dries it reminds me of all the reasons I love Montale's Musk to Musk and Frapin's 1270. The scent is spicy yet sweet, bold yet soft and altogether comforting and sexy. Like a decadent dessert meant to be enjoyed on the most special of occasions, Femme de Dandy proves to be a scent I could certainly own but sparingly apply a few times per month. Considering the history of the house, it should be worn on days that I feel especially creative and witty.

Parfums D'Orsay Femme de Dandy is available here. A 100mL atomizer retails for $60.

Image courtesy of http://www.parfumsdorsay.co.uk/. History of house also paraphrased from same website.

Forget Me Not: Lanvin Arpège

2008-03-17T06:00:00.005-07:00

Unbeknownst to me, a fragrance friend of mine had been assembling for me over the last few weeks a package chock full of samples and goodies. It arrived at the end of last week - a week where I nearly forgot about my love of perfume due to too much work and not enough play. (Incidentally, the first moment of down time I had, I started testing and sniffing. My perfume hobby and my indulgence in it is a good indication that I have "come back home" to my center or slowed down enough to enjoy life. My husband said, as he saw me wistfully pressing my nose to my wrist, "You're back!") With "Forget Me Not" fast approaching and no time to hunt for a new subject, I felt as if the angels smiled upon me when I saw in the package an atomizer sample of Lanvin Arpège.

Lanvin Arpège was originally created in 1927 by André Fraysse, a French nose dedicated to creating scents for the house of Lanvin including My Sin, Prétexte and the original Rumeur. Arpège was reformulated in 1993 and unlike other reformulations in perfumery, this one bears striking resemblance to the original. Therefore, for reviewing purposes I will be discussing the excellent reformulation which is much easier to locate than the original and very similar to it in composition. The notes include a sparkling top of bergamot, aldehydes, peach, orange blossom, honeysuckle and iris; rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, coriander, mimosa, tuberose, Parma violet and geranium at the heart; sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, vanilla and musk providing an ample base.

Upon first sniff, it so closely resembles Chanel No. 5 that I am left to wait in suspense as the heart unfolds. I wonder what so significantly differentiates this from the Chanel aldehydic creation. The top is nearly 100% sparkling aldehydes with an ample dose of flowers like neroli and lily of the valley, rendering it all but identical to No. 5. I do not have to sit in suspense very long, however. As warm and enveloping vanilla rolls through the fragrance, this note drops the resonation of the scent at least two octaves and it is the first base note I detect. The abundant, blooming and colorful flowers remain, but as the fragrance progresses they become much warmer and earthier. Through this stage Arpège resembles No. 5's naughty older sister, much like the contrast between Anne and Mary Boleyn during their adolescence, before Anne became crazed with obsessive love for King Henry VIII.[1] Anne’s naïve yet manipulative, sweet yet cunning persona contrasted with Mary’s pure of heart, genuine and loving nature exemplify the differences between sparkling, bright and powdery floral to earthy, languid sandalwood, vanilla and patchouli. As one of my contemporaries mentioned, vetiver gives the base a cool aspect, preventing it from enveloping the scent with warmness. It is precisely the cool-warm base that lends this fragrance its identity, separate from Chanel No. 5 and lovely in its own right. I picture the woman who wears this fragrance as beautiful, powerful and benefiting from exquisite taste.

I am quite captivated by Arpège and very pleased to have made its acquaintance. It seems deserving to find such a lovely beauty awaiting me at the end of a perfume-scanty week. To seal the deal, the packaging of the scent could not be lovelier. Originally the scent was created for Jeanne Lanvin to represent a mother’s love for her child. Therefore the image on the bottle is that of a mother and child, inspired by a 1907 picture of Jeanne and her daughter Marguerite before a ball. This image later became the hallmark image for all Lanvin fragrances. And it has me coveting a bottle of Arpège Eau de Parfum.

[1] Philippa Gregory's The Other Boleyn Girl explores the differences between the two sisters in great depth. I highly recommend this fabulous book that has recently been made into a motion picture.

Lanvin Arpège is widely available on many perfume websites. For example, a 3.4 oz. EDP spray retails for $76 on parfumsraffy.com.

Image of ad courtesy of adclassix.com, bottle courtesy of perfumemonkey.com

Top O' the Mornin'!!

2008-03-17T05:00:00.000-07:00

Happy St. Patrick's Day!

In honor of this great occasion, I will be wearing Chanel Bel Respiro. What are you wearing today?

Scent of the Day

2008-03-14T10:24:00.004-07:00

I'm almost there! Almost to the weekend! I look forward to catching up on my sleep, relaxing, exercising and getting out in the sunshine! My scent of choice today is the effervescent, sweet and uplifting Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier. Our orange tree is chock full of blossoms making our yard very fragrant this spring-like day. Spring comes early where I live so I plan on taking full advantage of it with some much needed time outside in the near future. Again, thank you for your patience during this arduous, busy period. Happy Friday to all! What are you wearing today?

Image of lemon blossom courtesy of delange.org

Scent of the Day

2008-03-12T08:36:00.004-07:00

It looks like my whirlwind professional life is not going to let up anytime soon. The next month is extremely busy personally and professionally. Therefore, instead of simply taking some time off from blogging, which I have been tempted to do, I will post what I'm wearing for the day when time is not on my side. Today's choice is Ginestet Sauvignonne, which I reviewed early last year. Due to my busy work day and my fairly formal evening event, this sparkling, citrus fragrance is not too overpowering to upset the flow of my day or anyone else's, yet when I catch a whiff of it I feel energized and clean - important for an especially long work day. What are you wearing today?

Image: Fresh Grapefruits by Martha Negley, courtesy of art.com

Laura Mercier New Releases

2008-03-10T08:05:00.005-07:00

A quick trip to the Laura Mercier counter during the Neiman Marcus beauty event proved interesting last week. I already own two fragrances from the line: Tarte Au Citron and Eau de Lune, both of which I find interesting and somewhat unique. Eau de Lune has quickly become a go-to daytime fragrance and Tarte Au Citron will always remind me of my favorite dessert.

The first new offering is an addition to her Eau De Parfum line, which currently includes Eau de Lune and L'Heure Magique. The new scent is Neroli, a refreshing, seaside take on orange blossom and one that certainly will find its way into many collections with a nifty $65 price point. I am anxiously awaiting the day the body lotion and cream in this scent will appear, for the spritzed fragrance lasts only a few hours on my skin. However, while it is there, it is delightfully fresh and sweet, faintly reminding me of the orange blossoms I smell in my neighborhood during my springtime nightly walk.

The second is Violette, an addition to the Body & Bath Eau Gourmande line. Laura Mercier suggests layering the various scents available in this line such as Vanille Gourmande, Almond Coconut and Creme Brulee. As you would guess by the name and the others in the line, Violette is a very sweet, candied violet that despite being an eau de toilette has great staying power. I purchased this one on the spot for an inexpensive addition to my spring fragrance wardrobe. I foresee layering it with the Vanille Gourmande lotion for a lighthearted, weekend fragrance.

Too Much to Handle?

2008-03-07T17:58:00.005-07:00

Hello Ladies and Gents,

I unfortunately have had more on my plate than is humanly possibly to eat this week (metaphorically speaking of course!) I apologize for my absence but I must pay the bills and in order to do that work is my priority! I promise to be back next week with my usual Monday, Wednesday, Friday posts. I plan to review new offerings from Bond No. 9 and Laura Mercier and throw in a surprise post as well. Have a fantastic and fragrant weekend!

Signed,

An Exhausted Perfumista

That image is NOT my desk but it represents how I have felt this week. Source: efficientorganizing.com

Congratulations!

2008-03-04T17:35:00.002-07:00

The winner of the mood-enhancing scent packet, based upon a drawing on random.org, is ...

Our Beloved Chayaruchama!!!

I., please excuse my lack of organization as I am certain one of your many gifts to me had your address on it, but would you mind sending your address to me once again? Much love to you!

Perfume for the Occasion: St. Patrick's Day

2008-03-03T07:00:00.005-07:00

When Divina suggested St. Patrick's Day as our topic for the month, my immedate thought was "How will I come up with enough suggestions?" She thought it might be a little ridiculous. St. Patrick's Day, ridiculous? Absolutely not!! I am as Irish as they come and I have the red hair, blue eyes and fair skin to prove it! I celebrate St. Patrick's Day as enthusiastically as any other holiday, especially after spending one on the Emerald Isle. My internal resistance, undetectable to Divina, simply had to do with a lack of ideas. However, she said the magic words, "Green extravaganza!" Green notes have often appealed to me despite the fact that I do not own many green fragrances. However after investigating them, I am convinced I must own more.

So what constitutes a "green" fragrance? Friends who are fragrance novices have often asked me what it means, so for them I offer a simple explanation. Any fragrance that contains more than one note related to the great outdoors can be considered green. They appear as terms like "dewy greens", "green notes", or "leafy greens". I have also, for today's selection, added fragrances with green tea, guava, water lily, basil or oakmoss. What do all of these items have in common? Being GREEN. I drew the line at granny smith apple and lime, simply because that would be taking things a bit too far. Citrus and fruity, although nice, are not really what we are after here. The idea is to identify fragrances that remind the wearer of a leisurely stroll through the park on a breezy spring day, a childhood romp in a vegetable garden or, most appropriately, a hike through the verdant, rolling hills of Ireland.

In order of my preference, I offer a few choices that will accessorize your March 17th green apparel beautifully:

· Bond No. 9 Eau de Noho - With notes of watery greens, mandarin, mimosa, violet leaves, cashmere woods, green moss and amber, this fragrance fits my criteria beautifully. A very fresh, clean and green take on violet but one that is extremely light. This choice is perfect for daywear before the evening festivities begin.

· Chanel Bel Respiro - Once you have experienced the exquisite beauty of the Emerald Isle it creates a long-standing and unforgettable impression. This is the scent I choose when I mind- travel back to the Cliffs of Maher and Dromoland Castle. Bel Respiro is what I will be wearing come March 17th.

· Christian Dior Diorella - With basil, green notes and oakmoss, this choice contains the most greenery of all. Although this is ultimately a fruity floral, the abundance of leaves suggests a green, growing flower or fruit.

· Estee Lauder Private Collection - A green floral in a class all its own. See my review, linked to the left.

· Lorenzo Villoresi Yerbamaté - The company's description goes like this, "A boundless greenland touching the sky. The scent of grass, of new-mown hay, of countles herbs and flowers scattered in the fields, stirred by the wind and warmed by the sun. A lonely fire in the meadows, the quiet ritual of tea and mate a gentle veil of smoke, rising and embracing." I cannot think of a more perfect scent to evoke the color green. However, it is a bit tricky, this one. Make certain to sample it on your skin before dousing.

· Van Cleef & Arpels La Saisons: Printemps - The only fragrance I could find that contains both clover flower and clover leaves. If you have ever experienced St. Patrick's Day in Ireland you know that the holiday is a religious one for the Irish. Rather than wearing green clothing and partying until all hours of the night like those who celebrate in the United States, the Irish quietly pin clover onto their clothing and go to Mass. And the clover is abundant. Therefore, in their honor, I include a fragrance with nearly as much clover as that that grows on the Irish countryside.

A few others that did not make my list but deserve mentioning:

Coach the Fragrance - with notes of green mandarin, guava and water lily, this extremely girly fragrance delivers.

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea - my favorite green tea fragrance that puts all the others to shame! Contains notes of green tea, peppermint, oakmoss and celery seed along with lemon, orange and rhubarb. It is nothing less than simultaneously refreshing and calming.

Clinique Wrappings - although this fragrance is typically worn around the holidays due to its limited winter distribution, it reminds me of deep, emerald green and for colder climates could be worn proudly on St. Patrick's Day. Fortunately, where I live it is already 80 degrees so I could not choose this powerhouse fragrance.

Enjoy the day in whatever way and whatever fragrance you choose. If you live in Chicago or in Ireland, I am green with envy!* Glenna honey, if you're reading, make me proud! Be sure to visit Fragrance Bouquet to read Divina's picks for our green extravaganza.

*After living in Chicago for nine years, I truly miss the festivities there. In my opinion, only Chicagoans know how to truly give the holiday its due in the United States! The river is dyed green, a parade takes over the streets, and every Irish pub (and then some) serves green beer.

The Mood-Enhancing Hobby

2008-02-29T07:15:00.005-07:00

Well, that is it. I must be depressed. Why else would I succumb to gifts with purchase and other marketing gimmicks to purchase inordinate amounts of perfume that I will unlikely use in my lifetime? Based upon an article in Science Daily: January 2008, wearing too much perfume can be a sign of depression and retail marketing takes advantage of this by splashing "good smells around" to lift one's mood. I certainly have succumbed to a round of sniffing in stores when I need a lift.

In fact, the article is quite interesting. One of the most resounding points made by Professor Shoenfeld, who conducted the research, is a connection between autoimmune diseases such as lupus and a diminished sense of smell. Most importantly, he cites that victims of depression respond well to aromatherapy. There we have it folks! Although I am not sick, the seed of my hobby is nothing other than a desire to lift my mood. Who knew? Read the article here.

Since this idea could elicit lots of feedback, I would love to know your thoughts on the impact of perfume on your mood. What specific fragrances do you wear to lift your spirits? How about fragrances that counteract a gray and dreary or rainy day? Have you noticed a significant change in your emotional temperature after applying a fragrance? I will draw a name from commenters to send a packet of my favorite mood enhancing fragrances. Please just let me know if you would like to be entered into the drawing!

Image courtesy of harrahs.com

Review Interview Style: Estee Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia

2008-02-27T13:03:00.006-07:00

My number one choice for the Top Five fragrance releases from 2007 is none other than the beautiful Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia, created by Estee's grand-daughter Aerin. I promised to review this early in the year, so here we are. A fragrance this gorgeous deserves an interview, so without further ado:

Mrs. TMH, why did you pick this fragrance as your number one choice for 2007?

Everything about this fragrance and its launch is well executed. From its extremely authentic tuberose fragrance supported by luscious gardenia, to its artistic packaging, to the concept of creator following in her grandmother's footsteps, to the exclusive nature of it, to the various forumulations available, it is extremely well done. Add to that that I feel nothing less than pretty when I wear it and we have a winner!

What is your first impression of this fragrance?

Pure, unadulterated, authentic tuberose

What is your second impression of this fragrance?

Creamier and softer, but still that dead-ringer tuberose - I feel as if I am carrying a bouquet of them with me as I drift through my day. It does soften a bit and I am certain other lovely floral notes are part of its composition but lovely tuberose dominates them.

How about a third impression?

The overall feeling is soft, feminine and light. This fragrance begs to be worn on a sunny day. Interestingly, I am usually in a great mood after I apply. But please, do not over spritz. That would ruin its stunning beauty.

What does this fragrance remind you of?

Um. Flowers? Seriously, it is so simply floral and unapologetically so that I cannot think of anything else to metaphorically describe it. I guess I could launch into a description of the woman who should wear it or a biographical sketch about Aerin Lauder, but in the end it is not necessary. The fragrance speaks for itself.

If you had to describe this fragrance in one word what would it be?

Beautiful

Would you purchase a full bottle of this scent?

Most certainly. I am just about finished with my spray sample so I foresee replacing it with a full bottle.

If you could only have one fragrance in your collection, could you be satisfied with this one?

Honestly, I do not think so. I would long for something sultry and/or spicy. But as far as florals go, Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia is close to perfection.

How would you summarize this fragrance?

A classy, feminine, extremely beautiful floral fragrance for lovers of white flowers who long to be unique.

The list of notes include: neroli, lilac, rosewood, tuberose, gardenia, orange flower, jasmine, white lily, carnation and vanilla bourbon

For more information regarding this fragrance and its formulations, follow this link.

Image courtesy of esteelauder.com

Gone on Vacation

2008-02-19T16:11:00.004-07:00

Dear Readers,

I will be away on vacation Wednesday, February 20th through Tuesday, February 26th. Therefore, my next post will be Wednesday, February 27th. Thank you and have a fabulous week! I sure will.

Best,
T

Forget Me Not: French Cancan by Caron

2008-02-18T07:00:00.000-07:00

When investigating scents to discuss for “Forget Me Not”, I usually seek out fragrances with some history (created before 1980), a slim following despite their artistry and a unique story. I am ecstatic this month to find a perfect fit, a fragrance with rich history, exquisite style and timeless grace. It is French Cancan by Caron.

Created in 1946, the year that President Truman officially declared the end of World War II, the Flamingo Hotel opened in Las Vegas and Parisian chic reached an all time high, French Cancan defined for American women an intangible, stylish quality that Parisian women somehow easily possessed. Named after the (at the time) lascivious dance of French courtesans seen at Moulin Rouge and other cabarets, French Cancan remains in production to this day. Initially it was marketed exclusively to the United States, further underscoring the longing of American women to experience Parisian goods in the hopes of donning a Parisian attitude. Its creator was also the founder of the Caron perfume house and his name is Ernest Daltroff. He developed nearly forty fragrances in his lifetime, including Tabac Blond (1919), Bellodgia (1927) and En Avion (1929). He also greatly influenced the perfume industry as a whole by creating a dark accord that lies at the base of each of his fragrances. This base has oft been imitated but never mastered.

At first sniff, French Cancan Parfum reminds me of my childhood idea of perfume. It has a quality to it that is unmistakable – a little overwhelming with richness and delicate sweetness that I became accustomed to smelling on most females in my young life. Interestingly, I have found the opening of most Caron scents to be a little discordant. However, the best is yet to come. As the heart unfolds, I decipher the luminous notes of violet, lily of the valley and orange blossom while violet holds front and center. With oakmoss, sandalwood and patchouli at the base, this is no shrinking violet, in any sense of the expression. Rather, this violet smells like midnight, like bold yet physically delicate women who harness their sexuality in the most confident manner. Other notes include jasmine, iris, lilac and amber. The base vaguely reminds me of Guerlain's L’Heure Bleue, subtly alluding to the scent of makeup and yet so seamlessly blended there is no doubt of its French origin. Lastly, the powdery, almost candied base renders this scent undoubtedly female – a brooding, confident, sometimes slightly loud but otherwise cultivated, stylish woman.

The name of the fragrance has created much debate. I find it to be most fitting, considering the bold and feminine qualities of the fragrance. However, rather than the Can-Can dance of the courtesans, the fragrance evokes our modern day idea of the Can-Can - an acrobatic array of frilly skirts and embellished undergarments, requiring elaborate skill and described as slightly teasing. Unpredictable in its development and truly a study in perfume artistry, French Cancan is most certainly full bottle worthy. The initial marketing idea holds true today. For those longing to summon their inner French-Parisian girl, this beauty must be tried.

Please be sure to visit Fragrance Bouquet to read Divina's pick for this month's Forget Me Not.

Caron French Can-Can is available at escentual.com. A 15mL of Parfum, the concentration I prefer and have reviewed, is available for approximately $170.61.

Image of Caron bottle courtesy of escentual.com, The Dance at the Moulin Rouge (1890) by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec courtesy of globalgallery.com, photograph of Can-can dancers courtesy of sensesofcinema.com.

The Question of Aquatic

2008-02-16T07:00:00.001-07:00

Among my contemporaries and fellow perfumistas, I have noticed that fragrances described as "aquatic" or "ozonic" do not get much love. My inability to find much information on the making of them has been frustrating. Perhaps the best known aquatic fragrance is the original L'eau D'issey by Issey Miyake. Others in this category include Calvin Klein Escape, The Body Shop Oceanus and Ralph Lauren Polo Sport. One of the defining aspects of aquatic fragrances are their "freshness" or "crispness". In fact, Davidoff Cool Water defines the category "aquatic fresh". Typically, they combine cool florals to create a fragrance reminiscent of a cold splash of water or a refreshing dip in the pool.

However, among fragrance connoisseurs they are less than popular. In fact, they are quite abhored. I am one who cannot tolerate most fragrances described as "aquatic". Perhaps it is because they are so popular and widely available now that my nose has grown tired of them? On this lazy Saturday when I really need to sleep and relax rather than research this, I beg the question of you. Can you wear aquatic scents? Why or why not? If you can, what are your favorites?

Friday Post Moves to Saturday

2008-02-14T16:52:00.003-07:00

Hello beautiful and handsome perfumistas. I hope this Valentine's Day evening finds you warm and smelling good. I am writing to inform you that because of Valentine's Day festivities this evening and a four hour work trip tomorrow I will not be able to post for Friday a.m. Therefore, stay tuned for a Saturday morning post and Forget Me Not on Monday. Much love to all.

Happy Valentine's Day

2008-02-14T07:57:00.002-07:00

Wishing all of you love in your heart and peace in your day!

Bond No. 9 Saks Fifth Avenue DNA For Her and For Him

2008-02-13T07:00:00.000-07:00

I fully realize that the hype surrounding these fragrances has long past after their 2007 launch. The buzz over Andy Warhol’s Silver Factory (arguably the best fragrance Bond No. 9 has produced) surely overshadowed any remaining excitement surrounding these scents. Even so, painting a few rooms in our home has prompted Mr. TMH and me to move furniture, belongings, organized clutter and general stuff from one room to the next. That moving process uncovered many of my belongings that I thought I had misplaced. I have never thought of myself as an unorganized woman and in fact my job requires that I be highly organized. There are only so many hours in the day and I would rather help save someone’s life than have a perfectly divided sample drawer in my home. I will get there eventually. Ah … I digress. What I found included my sample card of these two fragrances. So you see with such divine intervention, I must review them now until I misplace them again!

First, Saks Fifth Avenue DNA for Her – I really wanted to like this one. I really wanted to call it my own and buy a full Swarovski crystal bottle of it and display it like a piece of artwork on my dresser. But alone, it disappoints me – very unfortunately so. The list of notes is incredibly promising and all things that I enjoy: gardenia, tuberose, jasmine, vetiver and vanilla. Nice enough right? Unfortunately one of those notes subdues the white flowers and renders them dusty to my nose, like dried petals rather than creamy, bloomed ones. For a gorgeous white floral fragrance I defer to Jo Malone Vintage Gardenia, Estee Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia and even Annick Goutal Songes. I am very disheartened to say this because I am certain a lot of love and care went into the creation of this fragrance. But truthfully I cannot wear it on its own.

Saks Fifth Avenue DNA for Him is a different story altogether. The peppery, fresh, masculine bouquet makes me wish I had tested this a few weeks ago in order to buy it for my husband as a Valentine’s Day gift. To my delight, the “aquatic notes” never dominate, and although I find it difficult to describe men’s fragrances, I find this one very appealing. I am not certain how unique it is, for it seems I have commonly smelled fragrances like this. The notes include bergamot, aquatic notes, cardamom, amber, cedar, chili, black pepper, incense and guiac wood.

Now, for the ultimate experiment, what if we layer these two together? The beautiful and helpful sales associates at the Bond No. 9 store in New York City suggest it a fabulous idea. First dabbing For Him, followed by a generous dab of For Her creates an intriguing, earthy, peppery floral fragrance that I like so much I could care less whether the petals are dried or not. Granted I still detect the facets of For Her that I do not care for, but the gentle domination of For Him makes them somehow more tolerable. I think I just may keep these two vials to myself and wear them together. That is, if I don’t lose them.

Bond No. 9 Saks Fifth Avenue DNA For Her and For Him are available at Bond No. 9 boutiques and Saks Fifth Avenue stores. The 3.3 oz. bottles retail for $185 and For Her is available in a 1.7 oz. bottle for $125. The Swarovski crystal bottle is $55o.

Close Enough to the Stars to Smell Them

2008-02-11T07:00:00.000-07:00

Well, actually I am not. But I would like to be! My husband loves dancing and I am almost as passionate about music as I am about perfume. (Just ask my closest friends about my enthusiastic following of the band U2 and the variety inherent in my extensive CD collection.) So when the 50th Annual Grammy Awards aired last night, we were both interested. It offered a star-studded show full of crowd pleasing special effects, well-rehearsed, tight performances and enough bling to eliminate poverty around the world. I am compelled to ask, what would the featured talent wear? I am sure you have seen their outfits as they will be plastered all over the internet and tabloid magazines this week, along with a few choice words about their style (or lack thereof). I mean, what would be their fragrance of choice? Better yet, what should be their fragrance of choice? In no particular order, I offer some photos along with my humble suggestions.

Fergie - With her cheerful and sexy buttercup yellow dress and flowing hair, L'Artisan Perfumeur Mimosa Pour Moi compliments the fresher-than-springtime vibe she exudes without detracting from her strong personality.

Beyonce Knowles – To compliment her ethereal and suggestive yet soft look (albeit a little strange), Christian Dior Diorella - a sheer but ultimately soft chypre with cleanliness and class - fits the bill.

Carrie Underwood – The floral goddess gown, the gorgeous blonde tresses, and the beautiful, fresh face begs for Chanel Cristalle Eau de Toilette to accompany her with its light and fresh bouquet.

Prince – One of the sexiest, most unique, and exquisitely talented men on the planet demands a fragrance in a class all its own. It is Yves Saint Laurent M7, a very musky, sensual and exclusive fragrance for men.

Corinne Bailey Rae – This young and fresh new star with an angelic voice has apparently shed her homegrown image by choosing a large-sequined, short-skirted dress. Jean Patou Cocktail could assist those growing up efforts beautifully. One of the Ma Collection fragrances that offers a sophisticated and elegant bouquet of mellow fruitiness, Cocktail seems perfect.

Taylor Swift – I am not terribly familiar with her music. However, I was struck by her romantic beauty after seeing her photo. This is a slam dunk. Guerlain Apres l’Ondee provides the perfect choice and the perfect compliment to her over the top periwinkle dress.

Roselyn Sanchez – Dove grey on an exotically beautiful woman begs for Comme des Garcons Zagorsk - a cool, clean incense fragrance with violet, birch and cedar. Actually, Ms. Sanchez is not a musician but an actress. Nonetheless, I was inspired to pick a fragrance for her.

Alicia Keys – Perhaps it is the emerald green dress or the references to her devout spiritual life that prompt me to choose Comme des Garcons Kyoto. Whatever the case, one of my favorite female artists deserves an earthy and unusual fragrance like it.

Faith Hill and Tim McGraw – For a woman who only becomes more beautiful with age and who looks like a midnight flower in her ensemble, Annick Goutal Songes seems an apt accessory. For a handsome man who boasts nine consecutive albums debuting at number one on Billboard, the masculine and luxurious Hermes Equipage suits him.

Lastly, although I could not find an online photo, my favorite outfit of the evening goes to the retro-glamourous Natasha Bedingfield who donned a gorgeous purple gown with Marilyn Monroe-esque hair. Her fragrance should undoubtedly be, an obvious yet classic choice, Chanel No. 5.

Who were your favorite artists at the Grammy's and what should their fragrance be?

Images courtesy of Reuters

Frederic Malle L'Eau d'Hiver

2008-02-08T11:05:00.001-07:00

Following Camille’s lovely entry, a very kind soul gifted me with a decant of this soft fragrance after I expressed intrigue in it. Anything that smells like a “light dusting of snow” or “white paint” would provide a fabulous contrast to my heavy florals, syrup-y sweet gourmands and spicy, dense winter fragrances. Now after experiencing it, I have to agree with Camille’s assessment. As a first snow gently caresses the cold and lonesome ground, dusts large, expansive fir trees and blankets still, frozen waters, so does L’Eau d’Hiver change the landscape of its environment, subtly rendering it more peaceful, calm and beautiful.

The notes include bergamot, angelica, iris, honey, hawthorn, jasmine, heliotrope and white musk. What stands out with wear on my skin include herbaceous, fruity angelica, a touch of iris for that cold quality, a teaspoon of honey, a pinch of cheerful heliotrope and lots of comforting, healing white musk. Like all fragrances I have tested from this line, if I were a one scent kind of girl I could call this one my own. Yet, I am not and the sooner I admit that the happier I am. However, each of his fragrances are signature scent-worthy with L’Eau d’Hiver leading the pack for those on the hunt for a pillowy soft, dreamy, unassuming, unobtrusive and coldly comforting fragrance.

My only complaint is that my skin does not hold onto it for long. As snow melts with the warming of the sun, it quickly evaporates in response to my chemistry in a matter of hours. However, the few hours that it does linger are enchanting, refreshing and polite.

Frederic Malle L'Eau d'Hiver is available at Barney's. A 50ml bottle retails for $115, three 10mL travel sprays sell for $80 and a 250mL splash is $330.

Image of bottle courtesy of Barneys, snowy scene courtesy of stonyfields.com.

Hermes Ambre Narguile

2008-02-06T07:00:00.000-07:00

Have you ever had one of those days where things were going along pretty well, nothing was terribly wrong really, but the thought of lounging in your pajamas all day while it snows outside, eating sinfully rich desserts as you pour over a great book sounds incredibly good? I have had those days too. Actually, I have those days quite often this time of year, because it never snows where I live. After spending my formative years in a much colder climate, I miss the opportunity inclement weather affords to lounge and hibernate. Rather than doing what I describe above, I have to simply imagine it. When I need some inspiration for devising the perfect lazy day in my mind, Hermes Ambre Narguile is the fragrance I choose.

Although the name of the fragrance suggests a steamy and enticing scent, what it offers is a sweet, slightly spicy and gourmand accord. Rather than the oriental, suggestive and mostly animalic ambers like Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Ambre Precieux, or Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan, Ambre Narguile offers comfort like hot, sweetened tea or warm caramel apple pie. It is not what I expected at all yet I am pleasantly surprised at my delight in it.

Ambre Narguile was created along with five others for the Hermessence line in 2004. It is another wonderful Jean Claude Ellena formulation. Despite its very sweet and foody top, the drydown reveals his mastery with its depth and warmth. Its notes include benzoin, labdanum, musk, vanilla, caramel, honey, sugared tonka bean, grilled sesame seeds, cinnamon, rum, coumarine and white orchids. The beginning calls to mind very sweet desserts with fruit on top - perhaps some dried fruit to amp up the sweetness. I identify plenty of honey with vanilla, caramel and even a little almond. This sweet opening remains for a while, and if I sniff too much I become overwhelmed. The heart is more suggestive of very expensive pipe tobacco, similar to Tom Ford’s Tobacco Vanille but lacking the latter’s dynamic spices. As it dries and evaporates more, what remains on the skin is even warmer and more multi-dimensional. Although I never distinguish rum, white orchid or grilled sesame seeds, I do experience a snug and inviting feeling as the fragrances wafts, reminiscent of a heated blanket beckoning me to wrap it around my shoulders. This end stage of the fragrance identifies it as a Jean Claude Ellena creation rather than a celebrity foody scent.

Ultimately, Ambre Narguile is a grounding and warming fragrance, not too sweet, not too spicy but just right. I imagine by now it is loved by many and I am grateful to have made its acquaintance this week. Perhaps tomorrow I will allow it to take me on a restoring mind trip to a lazy, winter day in the Midwest.

I have yet to find a bottle of this fragrance online. I believe it can only be bought at Hermes boutiques, along with the other Hermessences fragrances. I cannot find a price, either.

Update 2/7/08: Found the price - $190 for 100mL at Hermes boutiques. The entire Hermessence collection is available as well in travel sizes for $135.

Perfume for the Occasion: Valentine's Day

2008-02-04T07:00:00.000-07:00

No doubt about it Valentine’s Day, at least in the United States, has become quite the commercial holiday. Guilt-inducing advertisements subjecting men to feeling like terrible partners if they do not buy their beloved diamonds or other such jewels, aisles stocked with pink and red decorations, lingerie stores displaying sexy red ensembles and heart-shaped chocolate boxes overflowing in candy shops and drugstores inundate and brainwash American society January-February 15^th. What Valentine’s Day has become is a far cry from what it was intended to be.

When I was single, I dreaded the day. It seemed that every February 14^th the world conspired for me to feel incomplete because I was either unattached or casually dating. And yet, somehow some way, I managed to make the day about LOVE – love for my family and friends, my pets, my career, my perfume collection and whatever else inspired me.

Now that I am married, I realize Valentine’s Day is every day. The more I make an effort to treat my husband as the gift that he is, the happier both of us are on a daily basis. So the day society chooses to celebrate love is simply an extension of our every day life and perhaps a reason to go out to dinner or light some candles.

Turning our focus to fragrance, I believe that since the day is about love, you should always wear a fragrance about which you feel great. There may be some special occasions, some celebrating, some acknowledgement of Valentine’s Day by either your beloved or a very good friend or you may simply want to snuggle up at home in comfortable clothes and relax the evening away as I often did in my single years. Whatever the case, you may be searching for the right fragrance and wondering what to wear, so I offer my ideas.

Traditional

Those for whom no Valentine's Day would be complete without bouquets of red roses, my favorite rose fragrances follow:

Bond No. 9 West Side – This playful rose fragrance combines the classic flower with peony, amber and vanilla. I fell head over heels infatuated with it at one sniff.
Bvlgari Rose Essentielle - In true Bvlgari fashion, Rose Essentielle begs others closer with its very classy, ladylike scent that is so subtly rose. I find this fragrance perfect for a bride or newlywed and it is in the running as my choice for this Valentine’s Day.
Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose – The ultimate choice for a femme fatale. Drop. Dead. Gorgeous.
Frederic Malle Une Rose – For the true fragrance connoisseur and rose lover only. A deep, red already-bloomed rose the size of Texas, with wine and animalic essences added. Try the body butter in this if you need a toned down version.
Jean Patou Enjoy – A modern take on classic Joy and one that is quite underrated. Easy to find on discount websites and there is still time to order! (For website information, please see my entry on online fragrance shopping.)
Ormonde Jayne Ta'if - Ormonde Jayne creates superbly unique fragrances and Ta’if is no exception. It combines rose with saffron to create an elegant and rich scent, reminiscent of retro Hollywood glamour girls.
Parfums de Rosine Poussiere de Rose – No rose fragrance list would be complete without Les Parfums de Rosine. Poussiere is an uncommon and warm rose fragrance with cinnamon and nutmeg added for intrigue.
Parfums de Rosine Un Zest de Rose – Cheerful and light, effervescent and rosy, perfect for a lighthearted and fun-filled day.
Stella Absolute Rose – My va-va voom rose fragrance when I want to kick the sultriness factor up a notch.

Meaningful

If you are sentimental and desire to wear a fragrance with a title relating to Valentine’s Day, you have some wonderful choices.

Agent Provocateur Eau Emotionnelle – A lighter version of the original Agent Provocateur that stands in a class all its own as an extremely modern chypre.
By Kilian Love – Very sweet, marshmallow-y fragrance. You have just got to love the very appropriate name.
Creative Scentualization Love Comes From Within – Sarah Horowitz Thran understands love very well and she makes that clear in this fragrance’s title. This blend of clove, rose, carnation, vanilla, sandalwood and musk will make any day more interesting.
S-Perfumes 100% Love – A true work of art. 100% Love is an intoxicating combination of rose absolute, cocoa and … drumroll please … labdanum (if you do not know how good this is, read more here). How I only wish I could get my hands on more of this by Valentine’s Day. It is my first choice.

Gourmand/Edible

How about rather than eating chocolate, you prefer to smell like it? These scents fit the bill!

Creative Scentualization Perfect Kiss – My choice for last year is undeniably sweet and special, snuggly, cozy and inviting. Jasmine, freesia and rosewood lie on a base of chocolate and vanilla conspiring to make the fragrance entirely appetizing.
Il Profumo Chocolat Amere - ::thud:: Chocolate heaven.

Persephone by Sali Oguri – Sali’s captivating blend combines decadence and sultriness featuring chocolate and blackberry, among other notes.

Romantic

Essentially, all of the traditional fragrances could be grouped in this category also, since rose is one of the most romantic of all flowers. However, for those who are averse to a rose note, I offer the following:

Hermes Un Jardin Sur Le Nil – A fruity, green and soothing blend that transports the wearer and softens the mood, wherever you are and whatever you do.
Laura Mercier Eau de Lune – The fact that I chose the romantic scene from The Sound of Music and Julie Andrews to personify this soft, floral fragrance is no coincidence. It is as romantic as they come.
Serge Lutens Un Lys – A gorgeous, creamy lily fragrance on a base of vanilla.

Downright Sexy

There is no question that between the sexes "romance" means completely different things. For the male version of our species, I offer some fragrances that will ... ahem ... help to accomplish his goals for the day, or at least inspire you to accommodate.

Chanel Coco – A fragrance for a woman not a girl. Spicy, oriental and classic, wear Coco with your finest jewelry and a secret that only you and your lover know.
Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur – Sex in a bottle. Need I say more?
Montale Musk to Musk – Musk has always been touted as a sexy note since it is what keeps several species of the animal kingdom alive and growing. As an added benefit, it serves as a fixative for perfume. Montale’s musk fragrance takes the cake by far as my favorite musk. Altogether sexy and comforting, I would swoon if Mr. TMH wore this on Valentine’s Day. (I am now posting a reminder in my calendar to find my sample for him!)
Just about anything from his collection applied sparingly even if I do not find that sample. He smells great and anything that he wears subtly will only serve to augment that fact.

Whatever your choice, remember to make the day about love (not necessarily romantic love) and you cannot go wrong.

Be sure to visit Fragrance Bouquet to read Divina’s picks for this month’s Perfume for the Occasion!

Dior Midnight Poison

2008-02-01T06:43:00.000-07:00

My first review from the house of Dior is their latest release from the long lineage of Poison fragrances. Amazingly, this is the only fragrance from the house that I like and can wear, although I am certain that I have not explored them enough. I received an atomizer sample from Macy's of Midnight Poison and was surprised at its lack of punching-me-in-the-stomach-cloying qualities I have found in the others. I would hardly dare to wear this to work, but for a date night with Mr. TMH or a fairly casual evening event, Midnight Poison is nice enough and well done.

The notes include a fruity blend of mandarin, orange and bergamot with a heart of black rose resting on a base of patchouli, amber and French vanilla. During the first full five minutes of wear, I have trouble making out the fruits and instead receive a cloud of synthetic patchouli and black rose. This patchouli has no "earthy" qualities to it but rather reminds me of Prada and other recent releases that claim the originally dirty note. It is clean and almost floral, sweet yet light and this cleanliness is precisely why I like the scent. As the initial burst fades, the refreshing fruits make their appeareance, while the rose note persists. Finally, amber and vanilla dominate the drydown bringing comfort and warmth.

I find the ad very artistic but somewhat misleading. (Click on the word ad to the left to watch it.) The actress Eva Green stars, floating through a grand castle in a long, flowing and elaborate navy, possibly Dior evening gown. As she playfully swings from the jeweled chandelier at midnight, (where did that rope come from?), she is showered with crystals as her own navy crystal necklace shimmers and glows. She glances at the camera seductively for the final shot, as if she is keeping a great secret from us all. The concept of a playful, transforming yet dark and sultry fragrance is fantastic and suberbly implemented. However, it is not how I characterize Midnight Poison at all. Rather, I find it to resemble a naive school girl going on her first date, bolder than she has ever been yet shy and reserved at the core. Perhaps the dominance of "clean" patchouli and the squeaky, clarifying mandarin note prevent me from getting overheated. It takes a lack of clarity to be truly mysterious, don't you think? Nonetheless this fragrance has a place and I encourage others to try it.

Dior Midnight Poison is available at Sephora and most department stores in the United States. It is available 1, 1.7 and 3.4 Eau de Parfum spray, ranging from $45-$82.

Video courtesy of youtube, bottle image courtesy of www.vip-parfumeria.hu.

Fragrances of a Feather Flock Together

2008-01-30T07:00:00.000-07:00

I have often noticed that several fragrances in my collection smell suspiciously interchangeable to one another. Usually it is a fleeting thought that I do not investigate. However, this week my curiosity got the best of me so I began to systematically test and sniff various fragrances and explore patterns of similarity. Of those tested, one particular group stands out as being so incredibly similar that I must share it with you.

These three fall into the category of romantic floral. All three of them combine rose and fruit with a beautiful amber or musk base, so if you are not into those notes .. well ... my experiment will be lost on you. For those who do love a light, casual fruity-rosey-amber fragrance, you may be surprised and relieved. One of the group is fairly expensive (even on discount sites), one has unfortunately been discontinued and another one is available deeply discounted, so why not pop for the discounted one and count your blessings? They are as follows:

Flowerbelle Rouse = Stella McCartney Stella = Chopard Wish Pink Diamond

Let us explore these gems a bit further, shall we?

Flowerbelle Rouse was raved about a few years ago by Parfums de Rosine fans looking for a less expensive alternative to Un Zest de Rose. With notes of orange, bergamot, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley and musk, it begins zestier than Stella but ends as a dead ringer for it. In doing so, it highlights the lightness of the amber note in Stella, since musk is the only base for Rouse. I do find it similar to Un Zest de Rose however, I have left the Rosines out of this comparison due to their exquisite nature. Some beautiful creations are better left alone. Unfortunately, Flowerbelle Rouse has been discontinued much to the dismay of its fans who delighted in spending only $27 for a great scent. Of the three, this is my favorite.

Stella by Stella McCartney was released in 2003 and includes notes of rose essence, peony, mandarin, rose absolute and amber. The crisp, clean mandarin contrasted with romantic rose and delicate peony creates a pretty and quiet fragrance while the light amber gives it some depth, though not much. Stella has become quite popular as a daytime, casual fragrance. (I own the Rose Absolute formulation for its deeper, more resonating and lasting base notes, perfect for nighttime.) Yet, the least expensive bottle I could find was at FragranceX for $55.23.

Finally Chopard Wish Pink Diamond was launched in 2005 and contains notes of tangerine, pear, rose, acanthus, apricot, freesia, amber, sandalwood, and musk. I adore the packaging, since the bottle closely resembles a diamond with the liquid making it pink. The composition is a little more complex than the previous two but in the end, the intricacies do not differ enough to distinguish all three. Best of all, it is available for just $21.95 for a 1 oz. EDP spray! The only drawback I have found is less longevity with this one. For that price, however, you can have a bottle in your car, at your desk and in your powder room.

What fragrances have you found to be imitations of or extremely similar to one another?

Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta

2008-01-28T07:26:00.000-07:00

You may remember my mention of this zesty and fresh fragrance in my discussion of our visit to Rome, Italy. For those who did not see it, you may read that here. I am embarrassed it took me so long to review it (chalk it up to too much activity since my return). Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta appropriately accompanied me through our few days in hot and humid Rome, for it was the only fragrance with me that was light enough to counteract the oppressive heat, crowds and noise. Testing the fragrance at home is an altogether different experience. I have only a few spritzes left in my sample vial so rather than needing a light diversion, I can simply enjoy its understated elegance and freshness.

With its goldenrod packaging contrasted with bold black print and their hand distilled essences, Acqua di Parma has come to represent prestige, class and elegance in the perfume world. The house is 100 years old and hails from Parma, Italy. During the early 20th Century, most perfumes in production were from Germany and were known for being characteristically strong. When Acqua Di Parma's first scent was released, it immediately developed a following that appreciated its "breath of fresh air" qualities, hallmarked by citrus fruits from the Mediterranean. During the 1930's and 1940's, Acqua di Parma gained a loyal following and had to strengthen its production capacity and distribution to meet the growing demands of the marketplace. Even so, it was not until the 1990's when three powerful men from the Italian luxury goods business decided to back the company enabling Acqua di Parma to truly became a worldwide phenomenon. Today, Acqua di Parma's products and fragrances are enjoyed by men and women desiring luxury personal products that exude elegance. In fact the brand recently opened a barber shop at the Yacht Club Milan. The fragrances are repeatedly featured in top fashion and beauty magazines, with the most popular being Iris Noble for women and Colonia for men and women.

Colonia Assoluta is a fresh take on the century-old Colonia, with more delicate notes added to modernize the scent. The notes include "Italian citrus freshness, spicy vibrations, floral radiant elegance and sensual white woods" according to the sample card. The "citrus freshness" includes bergamot, sweet orange, bitter orange and verbena. "Spicy vibrations" include cardamom, pink pepper and chili pepper (really?). And finally, "floral radiant elegance" includes jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang and wild orchid. It begins quite tart and fresh, as you would expect with all that citrus. In fact, it is so zesty to my nose that the aroma exudes masculinity. However, once the fragrance settles into the floral/spicy heart it becomes softer - counterintuitive to what you would expect with pepper and jasmine. The pink and chili pepper and floral notes are almost undetectable and serve only to augment the musky, woodsy undertones. Rather, the combination of varying notes unexpectedly morphs into a lavender-like skin scent for the majority of wear, a far cry from its citric beginning. Wearing this scent reminds me of a quick, brisk, cold shower followed by a leisurely walk in the park on a calm, spring day. I would not call Colonia Assoluta warm, but there is something remotely comforting about the fragrance. Yet, my sample vial is enough for me. Quite possibly that lack of warmth as well as my associations with it prevent me from becoming emotionally attached to the fragrance. For men and women who desire a refreshing and elegant scent for day or night, Colonia Assoluta should definitely be visited. My sensibilities are far more excited by the Blue Meditteraneo line that was just released by Acqua di Parma, especially Tuscan Cypress and Sicilian Almond. (More to come on those!)

Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta is available at Neiman Marcus and Sephora.com, in addition to other select boutiques. A 1.7 oz. Eau de Cologne spray is $71 and 3.4 oz. is $109.

History of the brand paraphrased from http://www.acquadiparma.com/.

Images of brand courtesy of http://www.perfumeriaurbieta.com/.

Winter Breezes by Camille

2008-01-25T07:00:00.000-07:00

I am extremely pleased to announce my first contributing writer!! I present to you my fragrance friend and Arizona neighbor Camille, a university professor with no credentials for perfume blogging other than a love of fragrance, a passion for learning, and a desire to communicate with others scent obsessed. She is perhaps one of the most knowledgeable people I have met when it comes to fragrance. And she has been so gracious to write "Winter Breezes" to appear during one of my most arduous weeks of the year. Enjoy and thank you Camille!

I love the glorious excess of the holiday season. It’s a time of culturally-sanctioned overindulgence: I eat and drink too much. I shop and spend too much. I stay out or up too late with friends and family. My normal restraint with decorative “frou frou” flies up the chimney and I lavish every available flat surface and door and wall with greenery and trinkets and twinkly lights. And I pull out my richest and warmest scents in celebration of the season: Even in south-central Arizona, where we never see snow and it’s rarely seriously cold, I can finally feel free to revel in the likes of Fumerie Turque, Organza Indecence, and Coco, scents that seem like “too much” at most times of the year but fit the exuberance of late November and all of December perfectly.

Come January 2, however, all that excess seems once again like “too much.” Salads and fruit sound better than any heavy dinner or rich dessert. I pay the bills and eye the budget with new resolve. A routine complete with exercise and regular sleep hours feels good. And I invariably can’t wait to get the boxes out and pack up all of the decorations that somehow have lost their sparkle. Once bare of the holiday finery, the house seems fresher, cleaner, and brighter—it’s like the cold weather version of that first spring day when we open the windows and the breeze blows through the rooms.

This year—when we took the tree down later than usual and I was getting really antsy and unsettled by the delay—I got to thinking about this period and what scents I wear that capture that post-holiday feeling: spare, clean, restrained, perhaps even a bit cool and melancholy. The fragrances that I turn to when I don’t want “too much,” when excess irritates rather than pleases me. There are, of course, too many options and this is purely subjective, but my top choices in this category include:

1. Après L’Ondee (Guerlain)

Admittedly this fragrance suits more moods than my post-holiday period, but I love Après for its cool and fresh take on iris and violet. It is spare and dry and classic, and wearing it makes me feel more restrained and elegant than I am (or ever will be).

2. L’Eau d’Hiver (Frederic Malle)

A cliché, perhaps, but L’Eau d’Hiver perfectly captures that feeling of a clear winter day and winter water in all its forms: glistening on trees, frozen in puddles, dusting the ground. Ellena’s hawthorne/iris/musk creation is a little cool, a little melancholy, and all lovely.

3. Passage d’Enfer (l’Artisan)

The name suggests fire, but the fragrance is all cool flowers and damp church walls on my skin. There is something a little peppery in the opening that captures the slight melancholy of the post-holiday season, and the sheer lily and incense drydown satisfies my desire for austere freshness.

4. Iris Silver Mist (Serge Lutens)

Rich damp earth clinging to cold roots with a metallic tang—chilly, clear and more than a little quirky, ISM is right for only the hottest of summer days and the chilliest of January days. But when it is right, it is perfect.

5. 10 Corso Como

I love sandalwood, but I generally favor the nuttier, more rounded versions—l’Artisan’s Bois Farine, for example, is a staple that I reach for often all year round. 10CC, perhaps because on my skin it is peppery and incensey and only a little woodsy, seems more suited to January than does Bois Farine or my other softer sandalwoods.

6. Andree Putman Preparation Parfumee

Pepper, driftwood, and water—how could this not fit in this category? This is gray and cool and clean and subtle.

7. Philosykos (Diptyque)

This is my surprise January scent. Philosykos is one of my desert island fragrances, one of the few fragrances in my too-large collection that I have replaced more than once. It is without any doubt my favorite summer spritz, an absolute staple during Arizona summers. But it’s also perfect in January: It is dry, fresh, and resolutely green. When I tire of iris and pepper and frozen water but am still in my January phase, this is the bottle I grab.

You know, as I look over this list, I am struck by how many of these fragrances would also be included on my "dog days of summer” list. Perhaps it’s because I long then for some of that bare and cool freshness that this list so accurately captures for me now. Huh. Clearly I’ll need to revisit this list when it’s 110 degrees!

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Do you have any fragrances or fragrance categories that fit your post-holiday mood? We’d love to hear about them!

Perfume History: Guerlain Jicky

2008-01-23T07:00:00.000-07:00

Quoted from pages 184-185 of the book Perfume: Joy, Obsession, Scandal, Sin by Richard Stamelman:

Jicky, often called the first great modernist perfume, was created by Aime Guerlian (1834-1910) in 1889 and was as revolutionary a creation in the world of perfume as the Eiffel Tower constructed the same year was in the world of architecture ...

Because of its distinctive blend of synthetic and natural ingredients-head notes of lavender, bergamot, and rosewood wedded to soul notes of vanilla, coumarin, civet and opoponax-Jicky, a scent of the fougere (fern) class of perfumes, was a watershed fragrance in the history of perfumery. It symbolized "a change in attitude" toward fragrance and a radical transformation of the image system associated with scent. It was the first perfume, Philippe Guerlain, a descendant, remarks, "to combine natural and synthetic materials to create a perfume with many different facts: fresh, flowery, spicy, oriental, animalic." In the history of Guerlain perfumes it was also a bridge-scent, linking the nineteenth century to the twentieth ...

With such a fascinating and impactful year of discovery and the idea of being a "bridge scent", this fragrance has me utterly intrigued. The fact that it was created the same year as the Eiffel Tower was built seems reason enough to at least sniff. Unfortunately, it is not available where I live. I would love to hear your thoughts on it. Any regular wearers of Guerlain Jicky? Were you aware of the spectacular history surrounding it? Is that why you wear it? Or, did you love it without regard to its history?

Image source: poivrebleu.files.wordpress.com

Forget Me Not: First by Van Cleef & Arpels

2008-01-21T07:00:00.000-07:00

I admire women who have a signature scent. Their dedication, loyalty and simplicity astounds me because I have never even considered loyalty to one fragrance - probably that Gemini thing popping up its head again. I love the idea of experiencing a person as a fragrance. In fact one of my favorite people on the planet, my dear grandmother, has a signature scent. It is First, by Van Cleef & Arpels.

When I asked my grandmother to tell me how she discovered the scent, she described sniffing it on her sister-in-law, my aunt Monique, with whom she is very close. Aunt Monique grew up in France and has always had impeccable, European taste. I remember visiting her house as a child and being so impressed with all of her interesting knick knacks, her detailed china cabinet and most of all her "cuckoo" clock. Her home contained such unique things to do and look at compared to our home. I would sit for a half hour to watch the cuckoo bird chirp at each fifteen minute interval, drawing the most excitement from 12 o' clock, hallmarked by 12 chirps. Add Aunt Monique's French taste and sensibilities to a short career at Neiman Marcus, and I am certain she always discovers the most wonderful scents to wear. When my grandmother initially noticed First on her and fell in love with the sparkling floral fragrance, she asked immediately what it was. After discovering it was First by Van Cleef & Arpels, she decided to buy some for herself. Although she was a little disappointed that its scent developed differently on her skin than aunt Monique's, First fit her - sparkling, light, buttery floral and feminine.

Since then, to my nose First has become the fragrance that is my grandma. She calls it her signature scent, although she has worn Chanel No. 19, Chanel No. 22 and Chanel No. 5. However, she rarely if ever wears those anymore. She has a bottle of First in her summer and winter home and in her suitcase so that she is never without it. She describes it as "light, pleasing, not overbearing." I describe her as light, pleasing, not overbearing and energetic, beautiful, sweet, warm and always kind. Unfortunately, we live far away from one another so I cannot enjoy being around her as much as when I was a child.

First was the second fragrance created by Jean-Claude Ellena but the first to achieve great success. Launched in 1976, the year of the grand United States Bicentennial celebration, First quickly gathered a loyal following. Upon inhaling its smooth and sweet bouquet, the reason it did so becomes quite apparent. First was created by Parisian jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels to be a jewel-like fragrance and quite possibly to augment the beauty of his jewels. What a perfect fragrance to epitomize my grandmother, a woman who undoubtly sparkles and shines to anyone who meets her. First is built upon a dazzling note of jasmine, with soft aldehydes to add sparkle and blackcurrant buds for piquancy and energy. I detect buttery tuberose as well, which gives the fragrance multiple dimensions. I also detect a mandarin note in the opening which reminds me of my grandmother's sunny and warm disposition. The perfectly budding, glorious flowers lie on a base of amber and sandalwood. The entire composition has a seamless quality to it, preventing any one note from taking front and center. Rather, they each shine at different moments, like the various facets of a diamond that together create one luminous sparkle. In fact, when I discovered jasmine is the principle upon which First is built, I was surprised since I often think of jasmine as too cloying and sweet. Not so here, thanks to Jeane-Claude Ellena's mastery.

The official notes are as follows:

Top notes: aldehydes, mandarin, black currant bud, peach, raspberry, hyacinth

Heart notes: Turkish rose, narcissus, jasmine, lily of the valley, carnation, orchid, tuberose, orris

Base notes: amber, tonka bean, oakmoss, sandalwood, vetiver, musk, honey, civet

I am perfectly content letting my grandmother call this perfect-for-her aldehydic floral her own. I have plenty of others to wear. Although, on those days that I am missing her and longing to be in her warm and comforting presence, I dab a little First on my wrist and inhale its resplendent beauty ... and her brilliant soul appears in an instant.

Please be sure to check out Divina's pick for our "Forget Me Not" feature, Lanvin Arpege, at Fragrance Bouquet.

First is available in Parfum, Eau de Parfum and Eau de Toilette (my grandmother's choice) at select department stores and at various online discounters.

Image of bottle courtesy of fragrancycity.co.uk. My own image of my grandmother, me and my mother at my wedding reception.

Review Interview Style: Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse

2008-01-18T07:06:00.000-07:00

Being Gemini carries some baggage with it. First, I get bored very easily. Second, I need lots of variety. I suppose most people could force their astrological description to fit their lifestyle even if at first glance it does not. However, in my case it fits so perfectly that nearly every life choice I have made supports it. My career that allows me to change scenery every day, my hilarious and oh so not boring, always surprising husband, my decisions to move, and move, and move again, my nontraditional wedding and lifestyle, my desire to travel as much as humanly possible, and my attempts to wear a different fragrance every day. Therefore, it seems no surprise that I have become bored with my typical review format. I will go back to it because it serves many purposes and you have no doubt become accustomed to it. However, today, just because it is Friday and I am bored, let us try something different. What do you say?

Today's review highlights Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse in free-floating thought, question and answer format:

Mrs. TMH, what was your first impression of this fragrance?

Wow! Green! Lush! Clear! Zesty! Where has it been all my life?

What was your second impression?

Eh, not so much. Something in the heart is bugging me, but without knowing the notes I cannot quite put my finger on it. Melon maybe? I loathe melon in fragrance and much prefer to eat it rather than smell it ... so that might explain my apathy.

How about a third impression?

Oh, I love the dry down! That melon stinkiness has disappeared and now all I get is French girl pretty, like how Carla Bruni, the French President's girlfriend, would smell. The ambience is very floral yet clean, light and cool, like sitting on the earth in the middle of a luscious garden. It strikes me as a rich girl's scent, with its multi-layered progression and refinement. If I had no perfumes left in my collection and could only buy one bottle for the rest of my life, this fragrance would be in the running, although Carnal Flower might win out.

What makes this different from other fragrances you have tried?

Frederic Malle's fragrances are so beautifully composed. Le Parfum de Thérèse really is no exception. This one is simultaneously cool and clean, with fruits and florals, but it never crosses the line into "sweet" like the plethora of scents today. That is why I think of it as refined, as in classy without trying too hard. There is something very stately about it, a little hard to get and distant but familiar at the same time ... a lot like the vibe I get from Chanel Bois des Iles (although completely different in notes). And there is something a little dirty at the bottom, to compliment the cleanliness and keep you guessing. I love fragrances with contrasting elements!

Is there anything about Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse that disappoints you?

I wish it lasted longer. It disappears on my skin in a few hours. Oh, and it lacks sillage (the ability for others to smell it). Something this good should last and waft.

If you had to describe this fragrance in one word, what would it be?

Expensive

What do you picture in your mind when you smell this scent?

Lush gardens and orange groves, cool and refreshing drinks like cucumber water, bare skin and damp earth, in that order.

Would you purchase a full bottle of Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse?

Considering the cost, probably not. But I would purchase a large decant after I empty the bottle of one of my current fragrances.

How would you summarize this fragrance?

Excellent and beautiful composition, full bottle worthy for those who can afford it, uplifting and cool with some dirtiness, perfect for days that you want your fragrance close to the skin and reminds me of beautiful people in beautiful clothes.

I looked up the notes in the fragrance after writing the latter. They are as follows:

mandarin, melon, jasmine, pepper, violet, rose, plum, nutmeg, cedar, vetiver, and leather

I am thrilled that my nose is becoming more discerning. (I guess it is a by-product of discussing and testing so many fragrances?) The cedar, vetiver and leather explain my love of the dirty drydown. What do you think of this one?

Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse can be purchased at Barney's and Les Editions de Parfum. A 3.4 oz. bottle retails for $160.

Robert Piguet Visa Re-Issue

2008-01-16T15:33:00.000-07:00

The inability to access the internet and post a review on Monday and Tuesday allowed more time to wear this fragrance and explore its nuances. How I wish I had taken time to test this at Bergdorf Goodman, the same morning I met its creator Aurelien Guichard, for I would have snatched up a full bottle in a heartbeat. This gourmand/oriental begins smelling like many others on the market and ends with unique beauty and depth.

Mr. Guichard has also created the spicy-sweet Bond No. 9 Chinatown. Chinatown features an interesting peach accord contrasted with spices. Thus, it is very likely he favors the fuzzy fruit and enjoys experimenting with it, for Visa builds upon it as well. The original Visa launched in 1945 and has been described as an aldehydic (sparkling) floral. Although I have not sniffed the original, I am certainly glad Visa has been re-issued as I proudly declared it my #2 favorite scent from 2007.

The opening of this stunning fragrance screams fruity-floral, thus the reason it may be perceived as yet another mass marketed, for the younger less discerning nose fragrance. White vineyard peaches, pear, violet, Italian bergamot and mandarin essences give it pizzaz and piquancy. Not to fear, however. This "just like the umpteen others" stage is very short-lived. The second stage involves that same luscious peach, along with ylang essences, rose, immortelle (everlasting flowers) and orange flower absolutes. Think rich, as in a dessert overflowing with sauce and cream, and detailed as in an intricate pattern, and you will nearly capture how gorgeous it is, but not quite. Rather than the lighthearted and sparkling fruits of the top, this heart is much richer, darker and decadent. The listing of notes, as on a sheet of music, simply gives the wearer an idea. The magic lies in playing them and in this case, the melody inspires and moves the wearer. If you have ever experienced chills down your spine following a perfectly performed number at a concert or musical performance, you will understand the beauty to which I am referring. Amping up those qualities, the leather accord at the lower base, along with sandalwood, Indonesian patchouli, vetiver and vanilla beans saves the best for last. The addition of vanilla and leather catapult the fragrance into the warm and snuggly category; the progression is akin to devouring a delicious dessert and then diving under a soft blanket while being caressed by your beloved.

Visa has some similarities to Thierry Mugler's Angel but I find it much more wearable and likeable. Nonetheless, for those who enjoy Angel, Visa is a must try. For all others, the fragrance promises a more richly composed and sophisticated fruity-floral with a gourmand and oriental base. I picture the person wearing this much like the press release for Visa, a very well-traveled sophisticate who desires to wear a fragrance "reminiscent of all the places she visits and sights she sees." A beautiful concept for certain. In this case, it fits.

Robert Piguet Visa is available at Bergdorf Goodman in New York, Le Bon Marche in Paris and Harvey Nichols in London. The EDP retails for $65-$95 and the parfum is $190 for 1 ounce.

Advertisement from Okadi

Posting Delay

2008-01-15T13:39:00.000-07:00

Hello Dear Readers,

I had every intention yesterday to post a new review, however technical difficulties prevented me from having any internet access at all. And today is over 1/2 complete, so I do not anticipate having an extra hour or two to write. Therefore, I will post a new review in the morning tomorrow, Wednesday as well as Friday. Next week I will be back on my regular Monday, Wednesday, Friday schedule. Stay tuned!

Best Regards,
T

Laura Mercier Eau De Lune

2008-01-10T07:00:00.000-07:00

This fragrance took me by complete surprise. As I was shopping on a whim at Nordstrom with my mother and my grandmother, mostly looking for comfortable shoes for my grandmother's feet (Nordstrom will sell shoes of different sizes to customers, greatly appreciated by my grandmother), I briefly stopped at the Laura Mercier counter to spritz myself with something different. I was headed to the fragrance department, and just happened to walk past the cosmetic counters first. As I sniffed this glorious, light floral, my need to progress to the fragrance department disappeared. That one spritz on my wrist stayed with me for the rest of the day, long after we found grandma's shoes, and I kept sniffing and commenting, "This is really nice!" As oft happens to us perfumistas, we take a visual snapshot of the fragrance as we spritz; therefore, that snapshot endured for months although the memory of the scent disappeared. Laura Mercier Eau de Lune made it a few months later to my Christmas Wishlist for my family to peruse. Thanks to my darling husband, I am now the proud owner of a full bottle and since Christmas have already used nearly 20%.

What makes this ethereal floral so beautiful is its absolute cheeriness. With top notes of white flower petals, plumeria, rose and mandarin and very subtle base notes of orris, amber and musk, it is offensive to no one and could easily fall onto our Perfume for the Occasion: For The Office list. A light, extremely feminine, and undeniably joyful scent of citrus-y flowers, it most certainly does as promised on the box. It "lifts your senses to a faraway place, showering you with a fresh burst of florals sparkled with clear mandarin". It calls to mind the color yellow, verdant fields, chirping birds and joyful song. I feel as if I am the effervescent Julie Andrews in the classic The Sound of Music. As one review from imdb said about her, "Try and think of anybody better than jubilant, crop-haired Julie Andrews as a postulant nun who has gorgeous pipes, can make play clothes out of curtains, can set up and operate marionette shows at the drop of a hat, and is confident enough to convince a man that a failed nun is ideal marriage material." Her naiveté, innocence and craftiness personify Eau de Lune, as do various scenes in the film, specifically the moment Captain Von Trapp declares his love for her in a moonlit gazebo. The gentle tenderness apparent during Something Good (click on the link to hear the song) parallels the softness and beauty of Eau de Lune.

As the film lacks script depth, so does the fragrance lack a strident base. Rather, the accords of the top fade ever so slightly and finish on a very light musky note. As I have done since I first watched The Sound of Music at seven years old, I anticipate escaping monotony and stress while watching the film (yes, even a child needs stress relief!), due to its sappy and entertaining nature. I could say the same for Eau de Lune. If I am searching for a deep, resonating and pulsating scent, I look to my Serge Lutens collection, spicier fragrances or my Tom Ford scents. However, for lighthearted diversion during the day and a fragrance that makes me feel pretty, it fits the bill perfectly. And it makes no excuses in being exactly what it was designed to be.

Laura Mercier Eau de Lune is available at Nordstrom and other select department stores. A 1.7 oz. bottle retails for $65.

Images courtesy of Nordstrom.com and thecia.com.au.

Creative Scentualization Perfect Kiss Sale

2008-01-08T08:22:00.000-07:00

From now through Valentine's Day, February 14th, the 9 oz. Body Creme and 1.7 oz. Eau de Parfum Spray of Creative Scentualization Perfect Kiss is reduced 15%. If you purchase them together as a gift set, you receive 20% off. With any purchase on the Creative Scentualization website totaling $45 or more, you will receive Perfect Kiss body creme and Eau de Parfum samples as a gift. Click here to enjoy the savings. Read my review of this delectable fragrance here.

Perfume for the Occasion: For the Office

2008-01-06T17:13:00.000-07:00

Similar to our last Perfume for the Occasion regarding airline travel, perfume for the office requires restraint and couth. If you have ever developed a migraine from a pungent, strident fruity-floral scent lovingly applied from head to toe by a non-perfumista, you know exactly what we are trying to avoid. A basic rule of thumb could be, "Wear whatever you want, but make sure you apply sparingly!" What may be barely noticed by your nose could cause waves of grimaces from unsuspecting colleagues at your office. And if your office is anything like mine, you definitely do not want to be that person who blows everyone away with your strong scent that enters the room before you do and lingers for hours after your departure. It could ruin your reputation and your career. Similar to an annoyingly loud cell phone conversation that rudely intrudes upon the personal space of countless people (and unfortunately I see this every day), too much perfume at the office immediately catapults the wearer into a club to which you would never want to belong: invasive, oppressive and suffocating. Human resource departments are becoming more diligent with scenarios such as this. Therefore, unobtrusive for close quarters could be our motto as I am certain Divina of Fragrance Bouquet agrees. Make sure to check out her entry!

With that in mind, there are a few scents that will prevent various science experiments in your home designed to prevent the above scenario. (I am speaking of the days where you dash from room to room and then retrace your steps to see if you can smell yourself. Or, you ask your spouse or partner if they can smell you from the next room.) No need to work so hard with these inconspicuous and modest scents, listed in alphabetical order:

Cartier Eau de Cartier - Clean, crisp and minimalist that starts out leafy green and ends with a freshly showered scent.

Donna Karan Cashmere Mist - an innocent, soft and light scent that reminds the wearer of everything from a hug to fresh linen.

Emporio Armani She - although this one will not win any awards, it is a great office scent with its vanilla, musky, soft, skin-like appeal.

Hermes Calèche Eau Délicate - Not to be confused with the original Calèche. This fragrance is quite different. Rather than the antiseptic, although beautifully composed chypre aspect of the original, Eau Délicate is a soft, woodsy floral that is at once clean and light.

J. Lo Glow - Oh, believe me I know I will get blasted for this suggestion. Nevertheless J. Lo's scents are very underrated and Glow comes across as soapy, soft and clean with plenty of white musk at the base. One spritz is all you need.

Keiko Mecheri Fleurs d'Osmanthus - a peachy, musky take on osmanthus that is very smooth and creamy. Think Serge Lutens Datura Noir but for daytime.

Origins Ginger Essence - Not the most sophisticated scent but universally appealing and uplifting to the wearer, perfect for an afternoon slump.

Prada Infusion d'Iris - A lovely, gentle iris scent that stays very close to skin and appeared on many "Favorites of 2007" lists.

If everyone in the world would stick to these or similar scents during work days, I believe we would have a much more productive and pleasant environment! I would love to hear what you like to wear to work. Better yet, list what not to wear as a friendly public service announcement.

New Year Announcement!

2008-01-06T09:11:00.000-07:00

Dearest Readers,

As you can see by my blogging patterns, my work greatly affects my ability to post. I was off work Dec. 24-January 2 and therefore was more productive here. My intention and goal this year is to post three times/week: Monday, Wednesday and Friday. There will be weeks where this is not possible, such as the third week in January during which I have a work meeting every day from 7am to 10pm. However, I will do my best to make up for lost time. Accordingly, I am still on the lookout for contributing writers so if anyone has an interest in displaying or practicing their fragrance writing skills, please e-mail me. Thank you for your patience and loyalty!

Warmest Regards,
Tamara

Top Five of 2007

2008-01-02T09:05:00.000-07:00

In honor of the new year and my one year blogging anniversary (!!!) I am please to announce my top five fragrance launches from 2007. Ironically I have not reviewed my top two favorites but I promise to do so early in the year. Contrary to a few of my contemporaries, I believe 2007 was a fantastic year for fragrance with an emphasis on a return to classics and an abundance of niche. My first year of writing about perfume afforded me the ability to try so many new offerings, and for that I am very appreciative. Without further ado, my top five:

5. Bella Bellissima Perfect Night - a voluptuous, woodsy number that I find utterly irresistable. Please read my review here.
4. Hermes Kelly Caleche - one that took me completely by surprise and one that I think will slowly capture interest of others. My review is here.
3. M. Micallef Note Ambree - I have yet to get my hands on more of this exquisite jus. It will be one of my projects for 2008 undoubtedly. Read here for more.
2. Piguet Visa - I had the pleasure of sniffing this wonderful creation at the Fall Ball. I also had the pleasure of being introduced to Aurelien Guichard and briefly speaking with this talented and charming man, the creator of Visa, Bond No. 9 Chinatown and Bond No. 9 Silver Factory! Visa is everything I wanted Angel to be.

And, my number one fragrance choice launched in 2007 is .... (drumroll please)

1. Estee Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia - I love everything about this fragrance - the packaging, the concept and the undeniable beauty of it!

A few honorable mentions:

Best Discovery - Gianni Campagna Vento Canale transported me back to Italy with one sniff - an incredibly unique comfort fragrance.
Best Line - I must agree with Perfume-Smellin' Things here. Chanel outdid most houses by far with their Les Exclusifs release and re-launch of Chanel No. 5 in Eau Premiere. I thoroughly enjoyed testing and reviewing offerings from Chanel and my review list accordingly contains an abundance of their fragrances.

Happy New Year 2008!

2007-12-31T10:07:00.000-07:00

Happy New Year dear readers, family and friends! I hope that in your celebrations you are able to close the chapters of 2007 and honor them for what they taught you. Be kind, be respectful, be responsible and have fun!! The year 2008 promises amazing things and I hope it brings you everything your little heart (and nose) desires!

In honor of New Year's Day, I will be posting my favorites from 2007. Please stay tuned!

Frapin 1270

2007-12-30T18:56:00.000-07:00

The last Sunday of the year 2007 inspires me to explore the word "complete". In thinking about the past year, it has been a most fascinating one. I have experienced the pinnacles of happiness, excitement and elation (new job offer!) along with the unfortunate dregs of hopelessness, grief, trauma and despair. I have faced physical, mental and emotional challenges that have brought forth even more inner strength. Yes, I could write multiple entries on what I endured this year. I could also write multiple entries on my strengthened faith and overwhelming gratitude for the multitude of blessings, love and supportive people in my life, most of all my incredible husband. I am not sad to leave 2007 behind. In fact, I feel so complete with it that I am relieved. I anticipate with much hope a new year, a new chapter, a new outlook, a new experience .... and perhaps a new full bottle of an amazing fragrance.

In that vein, it was important that I choose for this final review of the year 2007 a fragrance that I consider complete - a blend that is unabashedly magnificent, rich and whole. That fragrance is Frapin 1270.

I have never been to a cognac cellar. I have never even (that I recall) tasted good cognac. An allergy to alcohol prevents me from celebrating its charms and writing about it with any sincere knowledge. However, what I conjure imaginatively a cognac cellar would entail - the sights, sounds and smells - that is Frapin 1270. This is certainly not an original thought. The creator of the fragrance, the great granddaughter of Pierre Frapin, longed to conjure that image. Pierre Frapin's family began creating roots in the cognac region of France during the year 1270. To pay homage to her great grandfather and the grand cognac company he created, the rich, warm and enticing masterpiece of 1270 was born. The notes, according to Lucky Scent, include exotic woods, spices, raisin, vine flowers, pepper, candied orange, nut, hazelnut, prune, cocoa, coffee, leather, woods, white honey, and vanilla.

This fragrance for a man or a woman begins with a spicy, fruity and boozy accord. Images of dark wooden floors, large vats of alcoholic liquid in a damp, cool basement and elaborate bowls of dried fruit flood my mind as I inhale the honeyed richness of 1270's introduction.

As the woods, cocoa and leather make their appearance during the heart of this fragrance, the images in my mind become much more elaborate, colorful and emotional. It whisks me away to an opulent, luxe, formal event in a foreign land. This scent is not familiar to me at all and yet I long to go to the place from which it originates and submerse myself in the culture. Like a wallflower crashing a party, I would observe the conversations, behavior, attire and cuisine of this foreign place and no one would be able to see me. I can smell the gourmet food, the ladies' perfume, the men's warm skin, the decadent leather coats and shoes, the history of the building (I picture a castle), the damp earth beneath it and the unadulterated lust that circulates like air. And just when these fragrances nearly intoxicate me, I become visible and participate in the festivities of the evening as if I had always been there. For one night, I am someone else, someone more exotic, free-spirited and affluent; someone who has led a completely charmed life yet possesses a decent character. Male or female, young or old does not matter. What does is the fact that I am undeniably mysterious, rich and comfortable, desired and adored, respected and admired. And I think of nothing else but the present moment. This image stays with me through the sexy, slightly sweet and more woodsy drydown. I feel complete.

Frapin 1270's timeless, gourmand, Oriental and luxurious character makes it entirely full bottle worthy to me. In fact, if it is the only full bottle I purchase in 2008, I will still be complete.

Frapin 1270 is available at luckyscent.com and beautyhabit.com (althoughy luckyscent.com is sold out at publishing of review). A 50mL of the EDP is $85.

Image of cognac courtesy of drinkon.com. Image of Alnwick castle courtesy of mingayhistory.co.uk.

Interview with Sali Oguri

2007-12-28T15:07:00.000-07:00

When I asked Sali of Pink Manhattan to share the story of her personally created fragrances, she was more than happy to oblige ... and quickly! This multi-talented, generous and insightful lady has been so gracious in sharing some of her thoughts and secrets regarding her beautifully composed fragrances. Here are a few of them.

TMH:

What inspired you to create your own fragrances?

Sali:

Concept: I’m an independent singer-songwriter who wanted to combine music and scent together as part of one sensory experience. I named my CD Pink Manhattan, and so the matching fragrance shares its name. I call the work Pink Manhattan Sensorium of Song and Scent, Part I (CD) amd Part II (Perfume). That was my first perfume, and then Persephone followed just a couple of years later. Persephone will have a corresponding CD released in 2008. It was planned for 2007 but I’ve pushed it back till it’s really ready. We’re working on it, and when it launches, it should be slammin’, so stay tuned.

TMH:

Tell me the significance of the names "Pink Manhattan" and "Persephone"?

Sali:

I’m the nose behind both. I’m a grass roots perfumer who uses oils and mixes them in my home studio. I don’t work in a fancy high tech lab—I just use my nose and buy the best materials I can afford, then mix them till they live up to my personal standard of a well-blended piece of work. While I was finishing my Pink Manhattan CD, I was looking for a peach-gardenia-vanilla scent to wear (I usually wear perfume to feel inspired, or just to enjoy) and found none that perfectly suited my craving, so I decided to make my own. The theme fit the name Pink Manhattan exactly, so I went with it. I liked many fruity vanilla-based gardenias out there but wanted something a little more understated than what I found—something close to the smell and taste of gorgeous, huge, crisp and juicy white peaches I’ve experienced in Japan. Those of you who’ve visited Japan know that if anything is excellent in Japan, the quality of food is. Speaking of Japan, Pink Manhattan was first sold through a Tokyo radio station (J-Wave) that sold both CD and perfume to my American Top 40 listeners overseas!

Persephone was first created as part of a collection of goddess-inspired perfumes for a friend with a New Age business. The business has been on hold, so I rescued Persephone, the favorite blend of just about everyone in my life, and decided to recreate it using the very best materials I could afford before releasing it under my own brand. The result is a sumptuous, hedonistic Gourmand-Oriental, just the way I’d envisioned it: a ravishing jewel of a blend for evening, a modern take on the classical Oriental. It also follows Pink Manhattan logically because it’s a similar composition built with lower notes, maybe an octave or two down. Here, too, I wanted to create something I didn’t find out there, which was a chocolate-berry-amber. I think Bath & Body works and others have all taken up on this idea by now, but only mine contains no patchouli nor orange, and instead includes magnolia, hyacinth and other regal florals to round out the elegant composition. Why is it sometimes referred to as Unreleased Mix a.k.a. Persephone? I had renamed it Unreleased Mix at one point because I thought my 2nd CD might be called that, but that idea’s been changed, so it’s now back to Persephone.

TMH:

How did you discover each? (In other words, how many formulas did you try? How did you select the notes?)

Sali:

Mixing took about a year for each perfume. I compare the art of mixing perfume to mixing music. Although I’m a composer-arranger and not an audio engineer, I believe what the engineer does--the balancing of levels of each track--is very similar to the art of actually hand-mixing a perfume composition. It’s one part conceptual and one part physical—you really only get to do it once and if you mess it up, you’re back to the drawing board. It’s a bit like cooking too, although I’m much better in the studio than in the kitchen. I learned a lot in the process, such as how accords are born. It’s one thing to design a scent in your head but another to actually mix the notes and smell the result. Combining more than two notes was a huge challenge and took me hundreds of tries to perfect. In the end, I believe my perfumes came out as close to my original inspiration as possible.

I invested in countless oils from many sources, but finally came across a handful I knew I could use. Finding the right materials took about 8 months for Pink Manhattan; then for Persephone, about a year. The biggest challenge for Persephone has been continuing to find the top grade Mysore sandalwood which has become extremely rare. As it stands now, I had just enough to finish the mixes I’ve made, and I don’t think I can make anymore that would smell like this, which is part of the reason I’m discontinuing the online sale of Persephone. I’m selling some and keeping the rest as my private blend until I can find a new resource for the sandalwood. Some of the “real” Mysore sandalwood I’ve bought in recent months have been of poor quality and I just wouldn’t use it, nor would I replace it with cheap synthetic sandalwood because I never liked that smell. I’m thinking perhaps it’s best to move on from using Mysore sandalwood since the trees are becoming extinct. My favorite sandalwood sold out at one source that still talks about that yield of oil, reminiscing about how amazing it really was. I can vouch for the quality because it’s what inspired me to create Persephone.

TMH:

What is your favorite aspect of the art of perfumery?

Sali:

As with music, I like the creation of the concept best of all. The initial inspiration is what propels the project forward. It’s the song I hear in my head, pretty much done. I might add lyrics later, but the song sounds the way it goes. I have to love the idea first—then, I can work at making that dream a reality. That part is also fun but harder work. Seeing the end result is a great reward, but I’m a perfectionist and tend to pick everything apart and think they could be even better. However, I think my perfume blends are as close to perfection as they could be at this stage, and I am proud to present them to the public.

TMH:

Tell me a little known fact about you?

Sali:

I used to host a weekly Japanese TV show called “New Yorkers” that was watched by millions. However, it was a satellite show, and not everyone had access to it. It was one of the first HDTV shows made by NHK. I sang the opening and ending theme songs, and actually wrote the ending theme song which is on my Pink Manhattan CD. I’ve also had a couple of radio shows, and here’s the weirdest job I’ve had in show biz: I do voice-overs for educational tapes. For these, I’m often asked to put on various degrees of a Japanese accent which I don’t normally have. LOL. It’s a blast and I love working with the people I work for.

Her scents Persephone and Pink Manhattan are not only original and unique, but also very beautiful. Persephone combines dark chocolate, ripe blackberry, juicy pomegranite, earthy Mysore sandalwood and royal purple flowers to create an unforgettable gourmand fragrance that delights the nose with its sweet and delicious bouquet. As Sali mentions, Pink Manhattan is a delectable peach and gardenia blend featuring the most authentic and original peach accord I have ever encountered. The addition of pink hibiscus, French vanilla and sensual skin musk give it just enough intrigue and balance. Both fragrances stay close to the skin and would make a beautiful addition to any fragrance collection. Many thanks to Sali for her generosity with her time, energy and perspectives!

For a limited time, Sali is generously offering a 10% discount and free shipping until 2/14/08 on any orders of Persephone for "For The Love of Perfume" readers only. To order go to www.salioguri.com or follow this link and include the code LOVEPERFUME for your discount.

Image sources: "The Return of Perspehone" courtesy of matrifocus.com. White peaches courtesy of jupiterimages.com.